Start with some beaut gowns at Ambre (see Adv. Shop.), in a colonial building at 37, St. 178 (near Pasteur St. aka St. 51). With Ambre on your left, head up St. 178 towards the river and find contempo Khmer art at Xem Design / 023 722 252 / before charging up with a java jolt and éclair at #9a La Patisserie / 012 534 900. Continue across Norodom Blvd. past the stone carving workshops and check out work by young artists at #34e Romeet (see Activities), before seeing it happen at the delightful, crumbling School of Fine Arts, where visitors are welcome. Cross back to the left where the art shops are and try #65 Daughters / 077 657 678 / daughtersof cambodia.org / for pretty ecobags and crocheted scarves, and Theam’s House at #47 / 023 211 808. Choices. Cross again for the fab National Museum, with the Royal Palace a block behind (see Activities for both), or, take the next left into St. 13 for NGO Khmer diner Friends at #215 / 012 802 072. Splurge on stunning silver at #33 Garden of Desire (see Standout Stores) before heading left on Sothearos to find Sa Sa Bassac Gallery (see Activities) at #18 with cuttingedge local art. Need a pamper? Head back to the cnr for Bodia Spa / 023 226 199 / bodia-spa.com / above U-care for a good rub, otherwise push on and bag guilt-free sacs and scarves at charity-based Kravan House at #13 / 023 990 195. Finally, end your spend by the river with a mojito at the iconic FCC / 363 Sisowath Quay. Oh, go on then, make it two!