The Daddy of Them All

Angkor Wat. Grand, grey and looking better at 900 than any of us will, this C.12th masterpiece has put Cambodia firmly back on the map. The world and its wife will head straight for the west gate for the classic Angkor sunrise photo op, however, for an altogether different experience, forgo that fourth martini and rise pre-dawn, arm yourself with a torch and a trusty guide, and enter Angkor through the largely overlooked leafy east gate. Poke around the temple, then for a pre-breakfast Hollywood moment, exit the gallery through the west gate to the flashing lights of the tourist cameras. Afterwards, break your fast at Angkor Café / 012 890 539 / or Chez Sop’héa / 012 858 003. Arrive by 5.30am if using the east gate, or by 6am if using the west gate, and if it’s cloudy, scamper back into bed for a pash and go another day.

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