Old silk inspires new designs for summer in Japan
ORIGINALLY informal kimono worn after a bath, yukata are now popular outfits for many a summer occasion, donned not only for fireworks displays and festivals, but also for theatergoing, parties, short trips and more.
This year’s offerings include bold, colourful motifs inspired by designs from silk textiles a century old, as more and more people are posting images of themselves wearing yukata on social media.
“Many of this year’s yukata have eye-catching designs that will stand out on social media, while at the same time basically using traditional colors and patterns,” said Yuka Ito, a senior buyer for kimono p r o d u c t s a t t h e Ta k a s h i may a department store.
Among the new features in this year’s yukata lineup, Ito recommended motifs inspired by meisen, a kind of silk cloth manufactured mainly in the northern Kanto region that was popular from the Taisho era (1912-26) up to the early years of the Showa era (1926-89). Many young women at that time preferred kimono made with meisen both for daily use and social occasions, due to its striking designs and colours.
Meisen-inspired designs “can create a noble, proper air even on yukata, as these patterns were originally created for kimono,” Ito said. “They’re great for mature women.”
For example, a yukata with a koshi-gara plaid pattern with red and blue as the basic colours looks both retro and cute. This is one of the items that Takashimaya created based on antique meisen designs from a century ago. These designs were selected for yukata by students at Otsuma Women’s University in Tokyo.
For the plaid-patterned yukata, Ito picked up a soft sash, called heko-obi, in pale pink.
“Heko-obi are often thought to be for children, but they look gentle and sweet when adults wear them,” Ito said, adding heko-obi are particularly suited to beginners because they look good just tied into a bow in the back. The soft heko-obi are also less tight around the chest and waist than stiffer obi.
Another yukata recommended by Ito has large, blue dahlia flower patterns on a white background, another design from the meisen fabric.
“Yukata with patterns on a white background are popular, as they have a fresh, youthful feel,” Ito said.
She combined the item with a yellow hanhaba obi. As its name means “half-width sash,” this type of obi is only about 15 centimetres wide, making it easier to tie than ordinary ones.
In addition to items inspired by meisen patterns, Ito also recommends yukata with traditional yoroke-jima (slightly wavy vertical stripes), a design she said particularly suits women who don’t like floral patterns.
“This design emphasises the vertical line of your figure, making you look slimmer and stylish,” Ito said.
Takashimaya’s yukata collection this year also includes a polka-dot piece designed by Junya Maejima, inspired by meisen.
Some may worry about what colour yukata goes with what colour obi. Pale green, blue and pink obi are easy to combine with yukata in any colour or pattern, according to Ito. “If you coordinate your yukata and obi in similar colours, you look chic,” she said.
Finding just the right obijime sash band or obidome clasp is as fun as choosing accessories for Western clothing. In a new trend, some wear a hat with yukata, while others arrange their yukata a little higher up the leg than usual to show off the ankles.
“You can enjoy your own arrangements as part of your personal style,” Ito said. yukata yoroke-jima