The Phnom Penh Post

Can surfing help counteract PTSD?

- Tony Perry

IN SONG and prose, surfing has long been celebrated as a way to soothe the mind and invigorate the body. But scientific evidence has been limited.

Now the US Navy has embarked on a $1 million project to determine whether surfing has therapeuti­c value, especially for military personnel with post-traumatic stress disorder, depression or sleep problems.

Researcher­s say surfing offers great promise as therapy. It is a challengin­g exercise in an outdoor environmen­t; people surf individual­ly or in groups; military surfers who are reluctant to attend traditiona­l group therapy open up about their common experience­s when talking to other surfers on the beach.

“Lots of times it becomes therapy under the guise of recreation,” said Helen Metzger, head of the health and wellness department at Naval Medical Center San Diego. “They talk about surfing and then it gets into things that are deeper than that, common experience­s, common traumas.”

“For many of our patients, exercise is the best medicine, and exercise in the natural environmen­t is even better,” said James LaMar II, a physician at the Naval Medical Center San Diego. “Surfing is a way back to a healthy life, the kind of life they had before they were traumatise­d.”

The military saw a 65 percent increase in mental-health diagnoses among active-duty personnel between 2001 and 2011, according to a study done by the Congressio­nal Research Service. Cases of PTSD increased 650 percent, according to the study, and over 900,000 individual­s were diagnosed with at least one mental disorder during that decade.

The Navy study, led by clinical psychologi­st Kristen Walter, analyses questionna­ires answered by service members before, during and after a program of surfing one day a week for six weeks.

The first group of 14 activeduty Marines and sailors in the six-week surfing program all had shown signs of major depressive disorder, some with signs of PTSD, researcher­s said.

To the researcher­s, the initial results suggest that surfing can lead to a decrease in insomnia and feelings of anxiety, and a decline in an overall negative view of life.

The study, which began last year, will follow up with partici- pants to check on their sleeping patterns and whether improvemen­ts in their mental outlook have been long-lasting.

The study also plans to test the hypothesis that while hiking is beneficial, surfing is even more so. While some patients will go surfing, others will be taken on hikes.

When the three-year study is complete, there will have been 118 participan­ts in surfing groups and 43 in hiking groups.

For physicians who have treated service members, the initial results aren’t surprising.

“I’m a believer,” said Commander Natalie Wells, preventive medicine physician and director of military population health at the Naval Health Research Center in San Diego.

“It’s huge that Navy medicine is thinking outside the box,” said Betty Michalewic­zKragh, an exercise physiologi­st at the hospital.

Physicians in the military medical system and the Department of Veterans Affairs are hoping the study will prove that surfing is therapy, not just recreation.

“We all know it’s good; we can see it,” said Captain Eric Stedje-Larsen, a pain management specialist who worked in the San Diego surfing program before being assigned to the Navy hospital in Virginia. “For some folks, there is nothing like it. But we need science to get the administra­tors onboard.”

The surfing program at the Naval Medical Center San Diego began in 2008 when therapists were helping an Army staff sergeant from Hawaii whose right leg and right hand were blown off in Iraq. He asked whether he would ever surf again. Therapists took him surfing and, over time, were impressed as he regained strength and self-confidence. A second patient, a Coast Guard seaman whose leg was amputated in a motorcycle accident, joined the soldier. Soon a surfing program was created for other amputees and then for patients with mental-health problems.

The idea that surfing can relieve the trauma of war is not new. An exhibit at the California Surf Museum in Oceanside, close to Marine Corps Base Camp Pendleton, is titled China Beach: Surfing During the Vietnam War and the Healing Power of Wave-riding.

“It’s peaceful, but it’s also an adrenaline rush,” said retired Lieutenant General John Toolan, who led combat troops in Iraq and Afghanista­n. “Surfing is great therapy for young guys and for old guys like me, too.”

A surfing program by the Los Angeles-based Jimmy Miller Foundation brings instructor­s and psychologi­st Kevin Sousa to Camp Pendleton twice a month. Sousa follows service members with physical and mental injuries into the waves to offer surfing instructio­n and look for signs of emotional problems or distress. When the surfing session is over, he helps lead an informal group discussion on the beach.

“We believe we can heal each other one wave at a time,” said Kris Primacio, manager for ocean therapy at the foundation.

The foundation, along with VA Greater Los Angeles Healthcare System, supported an early study of the therapeuti­c value of surfing. Led by occupation­al therapist Carly Rogers, the 2014 study found that surfing, coupled with individual counsellin­g, group therapy and medication, can help alleviate symptoms of psychologi­cal distress.

Jonathan Sherin, director of Los Angeles County’s mental health department, was a physician with VA during the Rogers study.

“Surfing exposes individual­s to the awe of nature,” he said. “It’s good for a population that has turned inward from people and the outside world.”

On most days, military members can be found on several beaches in the San Diego area.

Nick Horin, 36, an Army staff sergeant and Iraq combat veteran, lives in the Aspire Center, a residentia­l rehabilita­tion treatment site. He has been diagnosed with PTSD.

“I had a lot of anger after Iraq; I wanted to hurt people,” Horin said at a beach in La Jolla. “Surfing is the only way to take the edge off my anger without drinking or taking drugs.”

A few days later, the latest participan­ts in the San Diego hospital’s surfing program and the study met at the beach in Del Mar. Marine Corporal Angel Lopez was severely injured in a motorcycle accident. “I can’t ride anymore, but maybe I can surf,” he said. “This is another step to keep going.”

One of the volunteers at Del Mar was Nico Marcolongo, a retired Marine major. Surfing, he said, helped him overcome PTSD after Iraq. He is convinced it will help others.

“Overcoming a challenge gives them a sense of empowermen­t,” Marcolongo said. “They stop thinking of their injuries and start thinking about the waves.”

 ?? COURTESY OF THE JIMMY MILLER FOUNDATION ?? Marine Lieutenant General John Toolan surfs at Marine Corps Base Camp Pendleton with the Jimmy Miller Foundation in 2014.
COURTESY OF THE JIMMY MILLER FOUNDATION Marine Lieutenant General John Toolan surfs at Marine Corps Base Camp Pendleton with the Jimmy Miller Foundation in 2014.

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