15 MIN­UTES OF FAME: READER'S RIDES

4WDrive - - Contents - WORDS BY QUIN­TON NEUFELDT

Re­li­able, de­pend­able power is what most diesel truck own­ers want. Our 2008 Ford Su­per­duty with the Power Stroke 6.4L diesel gets worked hard in all types of con­di­tions, such as haul­ing many loads and pulling a trailer in heavy traf­fic dur­ing the blis­ter­ing heat of sum­mer. While this truck is as plain as it gets, it can al­ways be counted on for work (and the odd task of bring­ing a dis­abled Jeep back from the trails).

How­ever, when cool­ing is­sues started to arise, we de­cided to search for af­ter mar­ket prod­ucts and see what our op­tions would be to rem­edy the sit­u­a­tion. An in­ter­net search of any type of en­gine – fol­lowed by the word “prob­lems” – will give you a lot of pages to look at. In our case, the rad was leak­ing, we had in­ter­mit­tant over­heat­ing spikes on the gauge, and the ac­ces­sory belts were chirp­ing.

Dur­ing our search, we came across BulletProofDiesel (BPD). I have seen their prod­ucts ad­ver­tised and read ar­ti­cles writ­ten about the com­pany over the years. Af­ter look­ing into what they of­fered, we pur­chased three prod­ucts in­clud­ing:

• The BulletProofDiesel Oil Cooler Re­lo­ca­tion Kit (US$1895)

• The BulletProofDiesel Bil­let Wa­ter Pump (US$399.95)

• The BulletProofDiesel Fuel Fil­ter Cap (US$118.19)

1. Christ­mas came early for us in De­cem­ber as we re­ceived our pack­age from Mesa, AZ in just two days. I had gone ahead and re­placed the ra­di­a­tor (due to the leak). I then flushed the cool­ing sys­tem, but left the other is­sues un­re­solved. The oil cooler can be­come re­stricted from de­bris and cor­ro­sion. The wa­ter pump was get­ting old and the plas­tic fuel fil­ter cap looks cheap and we just wanted to re­place it. It was now time to get to work!

2. Al­ways read the in­struc­tions first. The OEM man­u­als are needed for crit­i­cal pro­ce­dures, torque val­ues, proper se­quences, etc. How­ever, the Bul­let­proof web­site has a lot of ex­cel­lent in­for­ma­tion and the in­struc­tions are very clear and easy to un­der­stand. I also watched a few how-to videos on YouTube to get an idea of what was in­volved.

3. Here are most of the parts to be in­stalled. It’s a very thor­ough kit and noth­ing else is needed. How­ever, now is a good time to also do the ac­ces­sory drive belts, ten­sion­ers, pul­leys, ther­mostats, rad hoses (and any­thing else) since most will be re­moved any­ways. This isn’t re­ally a DIY project, but with a well-equipped shop, tools (and pa­tience) it can be done. The big­gest thing on the­ses en­gines is the amount of ‘stuff’ that must be re­moved to ac­cess the en­gine. The tur­bos, fuel cooler and EGR sys­tems are a com­plex maze, which all have to come off and out in or­der to get to the oil cooler that’s buried in the val­ley of the en­gine. Ford and many on­line tech­ni­cians rec­om­mend tak­ing the truck’s cab off to ac­cess the en­gine. I didn’t have an easy way to do this, so it was left on.

4. One of the hardest parts of this job is to get at the bolts at the back of the turbo. There just isn’t much room. Af­ter al­most strip­ping one of the heads of these 10 mm bolts, I came across some info re­mov­ing the body mount bolts and jack­ing up

the front of the truck to move the cab back on an an­gle. This al­lows more room to ac­cess the turbo up-pipe bolts. Re­mov­ing the body-mount bolts just may be the tough­est part of this job. These are just plain hard to turn – and they’re long. How­ever, I did man­age and got the front up to in­sert two 2x4 blocks be­tween the body and frame at the front, outer cor­ners.

5. Do­ing this re­quires re­mov­ing any­thing that is con­nected be­tween the body and frame first.

6. Hav­ing fun yet? It’s just get­ting started. Now that ev­ery­thing is loos­ened up and the cab raised, I could fi­nally ac­cess the bolts on the back of the turbo.

7. The kit in­cludes new gas­kets and bolts for the turbo. How­ever, since there isn’t room to use any big tools in there, I care­fully worked with a brand new socket that was needed to get the bolts off (with­out round­ing off the heads).

8. With ev­ery­thing dis­con­nected the tur­bos can now be taken out.

9. Here’s how it looks so far. Next, re­move the in­take man­i­fold, then fi­nally the oil cooler.

10. Here is the Power Stroke 6.4L en­gine val­ley. It’s hard to

be­lieve, but I fi­nally re­moved ev­ery­thing. At this point, we’re ready to in­stall the Bul­let­proof Diesel prod­ucts, and the in­struc­tions are step-by-step with im­ages.

11. The Bul­let­proof Adap­tor plate is the heart of the sys­tem. This will re­lo­cate a new OEM oil cooler and larger oil fil­ter from out of the en­gine val­ley. The adap­tor plate bolts on us­ing orig­i­nal mount­ing bolts and new gas­kets.

12. Once the BPD adap­tor plate is in­stalled, we can re­mount the fuel fil­ter hous­ing, the tur­bos, sen­sor wire con­nec­tions, hoses and ev­ery­thing else. Here is the new BPD fuel fil­ter cap.

12a. The Bul­let­proof Diesel parts are like works of art, rest easy know­ing they’ll last a long time.

13. Here’s the new bil­let wa­ter pump in­stalled.

14. This en­gine uses a dou­ble ther­mo­stat sys­tem, which can be­come over ex­tended and stop func­tion­ing. It's best to re­place them at this time.

15. Next, in­stall the new oil cooler. Here, you can see the new OEM oil cooler with the BPD adap­tor on top.

16. Hoses will flow oil and coolant from the en­gine val­ley and route over to this. The brack­ets are as­sem­bled to mount the new oil cooler un­der the brake reser­voir. The cooler will now be able to be ac­cessed eas­ily for fu­ture ser­vice.

17. A bracket and re­mote fil­ter assem­bly are in­stalled un­der the cab on the driver’s side. Oil is routed from the en­gine to the

cooler, then to the fil­ter and back to the en­gine. The larger spin on-style fil­ter has some ben­e­fits to the OEM setup in­clud­ing more fil­tra­tion vol­ume and ser­vice con­ve­nience.

18. Af­ter in­stalling ev­ery­thing, bleed­ing the fuel and chang­ing the oil and coolant, we started it up. We let it run for a while be­fore notic­ing an oil leak. The oil feed tube on the tur­bos had got­ten man­gled dur­ing re­moval. My only trip to the dealer was for a new oil feed tube. Oth­er­wise, ev­ery­thing went back to­gether a lot eas­ier than com­ing apart. Last, I checked for loose, miss­ing parts, then zip-tied back wire looms, cut heat shields in place, etc.

20. Ap­prox­i­mate to­tal time of labour: 35 hours. Thanks BulletProofDiesel.com!

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