KYLIE VS. KYLIE

Bloomberg Businessweek (North America) - - Focus On/Security -

Once upon a time, about the only peo­ple who at­tended fash­ion shows were ap­parel buy­ers for high- end depart­ment stores, who had to plan what would be on the racks. This is why spring cloth­ing is pre­sented in the fall, and fall cloth­ing in the spring. To­day, th­ese shows are so­cial me­dia spec­ta­cles, and you’re as likely to find Ciara at one as the as­so­ciate in charge of shoes at Saks Fifth Av­enue. You’re also likely to see ev­ery run­way look in your In­sta­gram feed or in a story on Snapchat, which makes wait­ing six months for some big re­veal as an­ti­quated as, per­haps, go­ing to a depart­ment store.

Now some fash­ion com­pa­nies are try­ing to re­write the cal­en­dar. The “see now, buy now” model—how did it take un­til 2016 to come up with this?—is so painfully ob­vi­ous that even Kanye West thinks it makes sense. “I just thought of the cra­zi­est idea of all,” the fash­ion en­tre­pre­neur tweeted re­cently. “I’m go­ing to sell win­ter coats in the win­ter!!!” So far, Burberry is the big­gest com­pany to make the shift. Brands such as Tommy Hil­figer and Tom Ford are do­ing it, too, as are fash­ion-for­ward la­bels like Thakoon and Vete­ments. Prada, Ver­sace, and Moschino have tested buy-now cap­sule col­lec­tions. “This new con­sumer doesn’t en­joy shop­ping the way the older gen­er­a­tion did,” says Roseanne Mor­ri­son, fash­ion di­rec­tor for trend in­tel­li­gence firm Do­neger Group. “It’s on their time and on their terms.”

This is true— but it sort of makes it sound as if it’s an un­rea­son­able re­quest to want to grab the parka you’ve just seen when it’s cold. And it’s not. Who goes into a Burberry store in Au­gust think­ing, “Ooh, I can’t wait to buy that trench with the lat­est storm- shield de­sign half a year from now”? See now, buy now lets us have the in­stant grat­i­fi­ca­tion we get in ev­ery other part of life. How sad that it’s taken fash­ion, an in­dus­try built on en­tic­ing want, this long to fig­ure it out. But that’s ex­actly why some com­pa­nies aren’t play­ing along. They say they need a month­s­long windup to keep shop­pers yearn­ing. Ker­ing, which owns Ba­len­ci­aga, Gucci, and Saint Lau­rent, re­cently said it wouldn’t flip its cal­en­dar. Chief Ex­ec­u­tive Of­fi­cer François- Henri Pin­ault said fast fash­ion “negates the dream” of lux­ury. Of course, the world’s largest ap­parel com­pa­nies, Zara’s Span­ish own­er­wner In­di­tex and Swe­den’s H&M, cap­i­tal­ized ized on this folly and built multi­bil­lion-dol­lar ol­lar fast-fash­ion busi­nesses.

For this idea to re­ally work, LVMH H and its pla­toon of meganames, in­clud­ding Louis Vuit­ton and Marc Jacobs, s, have to dress the part. And over­haulling back-end lo­gis­tics, al­though eas­ierier with nim­bler sup­ply chains, re­quire­sires more than the flick of a switch. The com­pany’s CEO, Bernard Ar­nault, the de facto em­peror of lux­ury goods, has yet to com­mit to do­ing so, though one of his brands, Loewe, did in 2014.

With­out ev­ery­one tak­ing part, will it look weird for a la­bel like Burberry to present fall cloth­ing in Septem­ber while all other de­sign­ers are fea­tur­ing spring? (The house’s most re­cent show in Fe­bru­ary high­lighted a few buy-now items, and as a whole the event felt tran­si­tional.) It might—un­til Kanye or a Kar­dashian tags a photo #faster­fash­ion, it starts trend­ing, and sud­denly fewer CEOS can make an ar­gu­ment that “the dream” has died. <BW>

A thief stole e $113.80 worth h of Häa­gen-dazs s ice cream from m

a drug­store in n Times Square, one e of 11 such heists in n New York City in thee

past four months.s

Af­ter re­ject­ing a $107 mil­lion, seven

year deal with the Wash­ing­ton Na­tion­als in 2014, and their one-year, $15.8 mil­lion of­fer in Novem­ber, Ian Des­mond signed an $8 mil­lion, oneyear con­tract with the Texas Rangers. Kylie Jen­ner tried to trade­mark the name “Kylie,” prompt­ing singer Kylie Minogue to file a no­tice of op­po­si­tion against the ap­pli­ca­tion in which she called Jen­ner a “sec­ondary re­al­ity-tele­vi­sion per­son­al­ity.”

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