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A decade after its 1909 inauguration, Tom Simpson paid a visit, admired the sandy ground but found much to change in the layout.“If you take my advice you will have a first class and modern course and I would like to meet the man who could show me a better one in France,”he said.

It was no idle boast. Simpson’s course is a well-balanced tasting menu of treats, including grand perspectives and exciting drives from pulpit tees, resplendent autumn colors and specimen oaks of great antiquity. Rocky outcrops typical of this forest embellish many holes and make an unusual hazard at the12th, a long two-shot hole or short par five where a rock garden defends the green. Take