4 HOURS KARACHI IN...
Delve into the rich history and culture of Pakistan’s most populous city
A whistle-stop tour of the bustling Pakistani city
1 Mazar-e-Quaid For a break from the organised chaos of Karachi, head for the Mazar-eQuaid. The elegant structure, built from immaculate white marble and accented with Moorish arches and copper grills, is the tomb of Pakistan’s founding father, Mohammed Ali Jinnah, known as Quaid-i-Azam (Great Leader). Situated in the heart of the city, it was designed by Indian architect Yahya Merchant and has been an iconic symbol since its completion in 1970. Surrounded by beautifully landscaped gardens and fountains, the Mazar-e-Quaid is often used for governmental and military ceremonies. For visitors and residents, the mausoleum is a great place to take a step back from the commotion of the city, enjoy the greenery and perhaps reflect on how a single individual’s struggle for a shared vision can change history.
2 Empress Market
Designed and built between 1884 and 1889 by the English firm AJ Attfield, Empress Market was named for Queen Victoria, Empress of India, and features a 43 metre-high clock tower that overlooks the action below. Empress Market has come to embody the frenetic energy of Karachi. Located in Saddar, one of the most congested areas of the city, it continues to be a one-stop shop for anything a household might need. From the vibrant colours of the produce and aromatic spices piled high in their sacks, to the smell of fresh meat and the cacophony of running tea boys, passing rickshaws and honking taxis, a visit to the market is a sensory assault. Standing amidst its hustle and bustle, you instantly understand why Karachiites consider their city to be the beating heart of the country.
3 Burns Road
Ask anyone in the city for the quintessential Karachi gastronomic experience and they will point you towards Burns Road. Named after British doctor James Burnes [sic], who served the Raj as a spy in the first half of the 19th century, Burns Road was once fertile ground for political movements but has since become a melting pot of new and decades-old food haunts. There’s Café Lazeez, which has been in business for half a century and is known for its karahi curry, or Waheed Kabab House, which has been serving a plethora of sumptuous kebabs since the seventies. Those with a sweet tooth should squeeze in a stop at Delhi Rabri House, which serves a condensedmilk based dessert. Burns Road is also a haven for street food, with vendors serving up a host of sweet and savoury options.
4 Mohatta Palace Museum
Mohatta Palace was built in 1927 as a seaside retreat for Rai Bahadur Seth Shivratan Mohatta, a wealthy Marwari businessman in Karachi. Located on Hatim Alvi Road in the affluent neighbourhood of Clifton, the sprawling mansion was designed by Ahmed Hussein Agha. One of the first Muslim architects of India, his design incorporated elements of the Mughal revival style using locally available yellow Gizri stone and pink Jodhpur stone. After partition in 1947, Mohatta left Karachi for India and the ownership of the palace changed hands several times. It fell into disrepair until the late 1990s, when it was converted into a museum. Since then, it has exhibited artefacts that explore the artistic and cultural heritage of the subcontinent. Open Tues-Sun 11am-6pm; Rs 30 (17p); mohattapalacemuseum.com
5 Sea View Beach
Much of Karachi’s identity as a city is rooted in its proximity to the ocean. The long coastline along the Arabian Sea is where fishing villages first arose more than 2,000 years ago, mentions of which can be found in writings about the Greek commander Nearchus, an admiral in Alexander the Great’s army. Today, the silver-sanded Clifton Beach, more commonly known locally as Sea View, is the favourite getaway from the oppressive summer heat for residents; somewhere they can enjoy the cool ocean breeze and relax after a long day working in the city. A traditional trip to the beach in Karachi must include a camel ride, and a taste of corn on the cob grilled over white-hot charcoal and eaten with lemon juice and a mixture of red chilli powder and salt.