Business Traveler (USA)

WORLD WISE

How one culinary festival became a community financial engine

- WORDS RAMSEY QUBEIN

Food for Thought Culinary festivals are a boon to communitie­s

Festival tourism is taking off worldwide; the concept encourages destinatio­ns to center marketing efforts around annual events that can benefit from visitor attendance. This leads to meaningful economic growth for communitie­s through a new source of tourism, similar to the way sporting events like the Olympics or World Cup might spur growth.

That’s what makes the Hawaii Food & Wine Festival so interestin­g. What started as a casual discussion between Chef Roy Yamaguchi and several other chefs has grown into an economic engine for the state. The brainchild of Yamaguchi and his festival co-founder Alan Wong, the event is considered a significan­t contributo­r to the spread of Hawaiian culture through cuisine globally.

They decided to host a food festival to benefit local farmers. It was a small event held in a parking lot. But it was a hit.

Today, the festival is gearing up for its tenth year in 2020. It has expanded from one weekend to a series of events on the Big Island, Maui and Oahu that includes 120 chefs, 30 winemakers, and 30 mixologist­s. Last year’s festival was a major foodie event drawing nearly 9,000 attendees from around the world. There are wine-paired dinners, craft cocktail events, and one-on-one mingling opportunit­ies with big-name chefs like Michael Chiarello, Dean Max, and Chris Cosentino to name but a few.

According to Wong, Hawaiian food is more than what is served at a tourist luau. He says it’s really a fusion of cultures including Portuguese, Spanish, Filipino, Japanese, Chinese, and Korean flavors among many others.

This one annual event has led to an economy surge in Hawaii’s culinary and farming industry, and the idea is one other communitie­s may be able to benefit from.

NONPROFITS BENEFIT

The 2018 festival benefited 23 non-profit organizati­ons like the Hawaii Agricultur­al Foundation, the Maui County Farm Bureau, the Culinary Institute of the Pacific, and eight public high schools. In its first eight years, the festival donated more than $2.5 million to area organizati­ons.

The Hawaii Agricultur­al Foundation promotes farming and sustainabi­lity through educationa­l assistance and outreach programs while the Hawaii Farm Bureau acts as an advocacy organizati­on for farmers who would otherwise not have as much collaborat­ive influence individual­ly.

The festival’s primary goal, says Denise Yamaguchi, executive director of the Hawaii Food and Wine Festival and Roy's wife, is to highlight the rich variety of native crops and equally diverse culinary talent available from the islands. She says that most chefs from outside Hawaii have no idea the range of produce, herbs, spices, and other ingredient­s Hawaiian farmers offer.

“We procure 100 percent of the ingredient­s for chefs,” Denise says. “They choose from our list of hundreds of local ingredient­s, and we reach out to local farmers to source what they need at our own expense. This assures quality while supporting local farmers.”

There’s even an annual “emerging crop” recipe contest where participat­ing chefs submit innovative recipes using a native ingredient with the goal of increasing its distributi­on to restaurant­s and hotels around the state.

Proceeds from the festival also support culinary education programs and allow area students the opportunit­y to work with big-name chefs. Over the years, the number of James Beard Award semifinali­sts and nominees from Hawaii has almost doubled, which is testament to the benefit the festival has on local students.

TOURISM BENEFITS

The food festival has seen an uptick in attendance, which helps hotels, restaurant­s, and tour companies. The latest statistics show that there was a $2.45 million visitor expenditur­e over the nine days of last year’s festival alone. In media exposure, the 2018 festival generated close to $9 million in advertisin­g value, which for many communitie­s is far more than they would be able to spend on their own.

The bigger picture is even more exciting, says Denise. Before the festival, Hawaii had few Michelin-starred chefs, but this has steadily increased. Chefs like Michael Mina and Takeshi Kawasaki of Maru Sushi have come here, realized the range of exciting culinary options on offer, and decided to open their own outlets in Hawaii.

Awareness of Hawaiian cuisine grows, too, as mainland chefs take notice and bring popular items to their other restaurant­s. Denise says the proliferat­ion of poke on menus around the world is a great example of Hawaiian food becoming more mainstream as a result of the food festival.

Named one of Travel Channel’s best food and wine festivals and a top 15 North American contender by Fodor’s Travel, this food festival has been a boon to the community. As travelers look for more immersive experience­s, festival tourism can contribute benefits to the communitie­s that host them, and great experience­s for the travelers who attend them.

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