Calgary Herald

The value vin: These Rhones deliver bang for your buck

- GEOFF LAST Looking for wine in Alberta? Go to www.liquorconn­ect.com Geoff Last is a long time Calgary wine merchant and writer and a regular contributo­r to City Palate and other publicatio­ns. He instructs on food and wine at the Cookbook Company Cooks.

France’s Rhône Valley has been a source for high quality value-driven wines for decades, and while prices have crept up slightly with the rise of the euro, for the most part this remains the case.

The real value in the Rhone comes in the form of the basic Côtes du Rhône and Côte du Rhône Villages wines. The best ones display characteri­stics similar to the great wines of Chateauneu­f-du-Pape and Gigondas but for less than half the price, at least. Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre, Cinsault and Carignan are the workhorse grapes of the region although there are numerous lesser-known indigenous varietals that find their way into many of the blends. Here are a few of my current favourites; Domaine de la Florane Fleur de Pampre Côtes du Rhône Villages 2013 - $19

Here is a great bang-for-the-buck red from the Côtes du Rhône village of Visan, a soft, easy-drinking red with some notes of crushed cherries, spice and lots of character. It is made from old vine Grenache (80%) and Syrah, with the bonus of being produced from organicall­y grown grapes. Only half of the blend goes into oak while the rest is aged in stainless steel tanks, which helps keep if fresh and lively tasting. It would go well roast pork, burgers and roast chicken. Domaine de la Renjarde Côtes du Rhône Villages 2011 - $25

This is one of my go-to Côtes du Rhônes and has been for many years. It is remarkably consistent from year to year, perhaps because it is owned and operated by the Richard family who also own Chateau La Nerthe, a firstrate producer of Chateauneu­fdu-Pape. The wine comes across like a mini Chateauneu­f with lots of spice and black fruits along with the classic Provencal notes of wild sage brush ( known locally as garrigue). It would go well with lamb stew and game meats. Les Halos de Jupiter Côtes du Rhône 2012 - $24

Winemaker Philipe Cambie is one of the most famous and sought-after consulting winemakers in the Rhône Valley, so as you can imagine his own wines are impressive. He produces these wines in conjunctio­n with Michel Gassier, a name synonymous with high- quality wines from the Languedoc region. This is predominan­tly old vine Grenache (85%) along with some Syrah and Mourvedre from a high altitude vineyard near Roaix, at the northern fringe of Southern Rhône. It is a big, brawny style Rhône with a hefty kick of alcohol (15.5%) but it holds it well, delivering notes of kirsch, black pepper and plums with firm but well integrated tannins. The usual red meat combinatio­ns are in order here, especially so with game meat.

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