A CREATIVE APPROACH TO FRENCH FARE
Former trattoria transformed into Parc, with menu of brasserie classics
When Borgo shuffled off this mortal coil a few months ago, its high-traffic spot at 818 - 16 Ave. S.W. near Mount Royal Village didn’t stay vacant for long. Creative Restaurants, known for its growing list of eateries from Bonterra and Scopa to Loco Lou’s and Toronto’s Richmond Station, scooped up the real estate quickly.
But considering the proximity to three of their other restaurants — Bonterra, Posto and Cibo, all Italian — they opted for a fresh approach — French. The Creative team looked across the street to Tomkins Park and landed on the name Parc Cafe & Brasserie to identify the concept of a lively, casual, 120-seat restaurant (403-454-2700). (Note: 2015 is the centenary of Tomkins Park, having been gifted to the City by the Tomkins family in 1915.)
Then Creative’s operations manager John Robarts and his team went to work “Frenchifying” the former Italian trattoria. The bones were already in good shape, the long, central bar and the white tile setting up perfectly for a brasserie. Booths were converted to banquettes, mirrors, a key component to the French look, were added and furniture was transitioned from Italian to bentwood bistro chairs and simple tables. Framed French posters and black-and-white photos were hung and voila, Borgo is now Parc.
Creative chef/partner Glen Manzer and Parc executive chef Claudio Bagnoli have designed a menu that spans France with the likes of duck confit, cote de boeuf, Nicoise salad and tarte flambee. Daily specials — Wednesday is mussels, Thursdays is rack of lamb and so on — fill the week and all breads and pastries will be made in house.
Parc general manager Guillaume Frelot, a native of Brittany, promises an all-French wine list — plus a bevy of calvados and cognac — and a sunny patio come spring. Parc is bound to become another 17th Avenue destination.
TASTE OF THAILAND
A few blocks away from Parc, Peter and Mimi Phangnanouvong have opened Taste of Thailand at 1256 — 12 Ave. S.W. (403-4745666). Tiny at 27 seats, Taste of Thailand brings the flavours of Isan, the northeastern region of Thailand to the Beltline. The Phangnanouvongs describe Isan food as a blend of Thai and Lao that is less sweet and less reliant on the coconut milk and peanuts found in much of central Thai cuisine. Instead, the spicing can be quite clean and forceful in dishes such as khao soi (a rich noodle soup) and larb gai (a spicy chicken salad).
Peter learned the recipes for his dishes from his family in Thailand but also studied classic culinary technique at Humber College in Toronto. He then worked in the restaurant business in Toronto for a couple of decades. But, having arrived in Calgary last fall, the couple decided that their own restaurant would have a Thai focus. The cosy interior is a pleasant, comfortable spot and the Phangnanouvongs plan to add a south-facing patio soon, doubling their capacity.
Taste of Thailand is open Monday to Saturday for lunch and dinner and takes reservations. It is also fully licensed but does not do corkage.
THE 2015 TRENDS ARE ...
Food trends come and go, often very quickly. Some last, like the ubiquitous cupcake, others, such as fondue, cycle in and out every few years. Some, like focaccia, become staples in our cuisine. Every year, there’s a new list of the hot trends in North American cuisine. It was all about pork, cauliflower and tacos in 2014. So what about 2015?
I’ve scoured local menus and with The Big Taste now behind us, I’m announcing the trends for 2015.
Protein of the year — octopus. The former bycatch has become popular and not just at sushi bars. Grilled, charred, braised or worked into tapas, the tasty tentacles are popping up everywhere.
Vegetable — celery. Including the leafs and celeriac root as well as the stalk, celery is proving to be flexible and brings a spring brightness to the plate. It’s also cost effective.
Baked — brioche. One for the progluten fans, the egg- and dairy-infused bread fits the overall growth in French and French-related offerings.
Sauce — chimichurri. Formerly a simple oil-vinegar-chopped green herb condiment for Argentine meats, chimichurri is now the base of many sauces for seemingly all things.
Seasoning — horseradish. Preferably home grown and hand shaved, horseradish has come off the prime rib table and is now appearing as a key flavouring agent on oysters, salads and, of course, in chimchurris.