DINE OUT REVIEWS:

Parc Brasserie

p arc Brasserie quietly opened a few weeks ago, amidst what seems like the never- ending construction site that is Mt. Royal Village. The latest offspring of Creative Restaurants, which is known in Calgary for its take on Italian ( Scopa, Bonterra, Cibo and Posto), the French restaurant is the group’s first non- Italian venue. Ironically, it’s located where the trattoria Borgo once lived. While Borgo’s subway- tiled walls remain ( they always seemed more French than Italian anyway), the menu is strictly brasserie fare.

At lunch on an early spring afternoon, we sat by the huge front windows and perused the paper menu while enjoying the sun streaming in. It was hard to decide what to order; you can go with what Anthony Bourdain calls “classic brasserie chow”: soupe à l’oignon ($ 12), salade niçoise ($ 24), a croque madame ($ 17), or have something a little less quotidian, like parmentier, a shepherd’s pie with wild boar, lamb and mushrooms ($ 16). While we decided, we nibbled on olives seasoned with herbes de Provence ($ 5) and a baguette, baked in- house and brought to the table with both butter and olive oil. ( Good French bread and olive oil may just be my last- meal request.) Then we shared the escargots, with a Portobello mushroom tarte and garlic chips ($ 15).

From the plats principaux, I ordered the most classic brasserie chow of all: steak frites. There’s a choice of NY strip loin or flat- iron cut; I went with the latter, medium- rare ($ 19). It came with a green salad that included al dente green beans, and, of course, the frites, which, like the meat, were perfectly cooked and seasoned. My friend had the tarte flambée ($ 15), similar to flatbread, with double- smoked bacon, onions, crème fraîche and butter, lots of butter. Our murmurs of gustatory satisfaction intrigued Sheila, the lovely woman dining alone at the next table, so we shared bites with her as she waited for her main course. ( Sheila had the poulet, cooked in a red- wine reduction. She pronounced it, and the ambience, wonderful.) You need a bit of something sweet to end such a delicious meal, and besides, who can resist made- to- order madeleines ($ 9)? The tiny sponge cakes come to the table still warm and nestled in a paper bag, a French- pastry version of the mini- doughnuts at Stampede. There were more than enough, so we shared them with Sheila, too.

Parc is a replica of the sort of Parisian restaurant you think of when you think of Paris, even if it’s not, really, because the tables aren’t worn, the floor tiles aren’t cracked, the servers aren’t dismissive, and there aren’t two old guys in rumpled suit jackets in the corner who look like they’ve been sitting there since Jane Birkin was married to Serge Gainsbourg. Those brasseries have history behind them; Parc is a fresh take, more reminiscent of Balthazar in New York City than Les Deux Magots. Still, here’s hoping that when the sidewalk patio opens, there will be wicker café chairs that face Tomkins Park, so you can people- watch while eating, just like on Boulevard St. Germain.

818 16th Ave. S. W., 403- 454- 2700.