Talking turkey, wonderful sides and stuffing too
A lot is riding on the star of the Thanksgiving table. As home cooks, it’s likely we’re only called upon to prepare a feast a few times each year, so performance anxiety is only natural. To lessen the fear, and better understand our options in choosing an
CHOOSING A BIRD
Turkey Farmers of Canada spokesperson and registered dietitian Shannon Crocker says all Canadian turkeys are “free run.” This means they are not kept in cages, but doesn’t necessarily mean they have access to the outdoors; the majority are barn-raised. An alternative is pasture-raised turkeys. Dave Meli, executive butcher at The Healthy Butcher in Toronto, points out that Thanksgiving is a special time of year because it’s possible to get a bird that has lived its entire life outdoors.
“Turkeys, like chickens, are omnivores. The big companies try to advertise the inexpensive feed sources, like ‘corn-fed’ or ‘grain-fed.’ That’s great — we know they’re omnivores so they need a carbohydrate — but that’s the cheap part. Just like when you go grocery shopping, the cheap things that go into your cart are the carbohydrates,” Meli says. “The big question that people should be asking is ‘ What’s the protein source?’ And that’s what really separates the different gauges of turkeys.”
Meli points out that the majority of turkeys on the market get their protein from eating pastry lard or other animal byproducts, while pasture-raised turkeys get at least some of their protein from natural sources such as bugs and larvae. “A lot of times people just don’t want to know the answer because they’re happier paying 79 cents a pound for a turkey than finding out why it’s 79 cents a pound,” he says. “And it’s not to say that inexpensive turkeys are not great, but when it comes to the inputs, the price is going to reflect what brought that bird to its full market weight.”
Certified organic (pastureraised or barn-raised), and heritage breed turkeys (such as Ridley Bronze and Bourbon Red), are also options, depending on your budget and preference. Peter Sanagan, owner of Sanagan’s Meat Locker in Toronto, says that he has noticed an increased interest in heritage breeds but the issue is price: “Our regular turkeys retail at $4.49 a pound. Organic and heritage are $6.50 to $7 a pound, if not more. So when you’re talking about something so large, say 20 pounds at $7 a pound, that’s $140 to feed a family. It’s still a luxury item.”
GRADE A VERSUS UTILITY
The majority of whole birds are Grade A; Utility grade turkeys are also available, and less expensive for esthetic reasons. Grade A turkeys are well-shaped and meaty with an even fat covering while Utility grade turkeys may be missing a wing or a leg, or have other visual defects. “Somewhere along the line in processing, while de-feathering [for example], say they tear the skin. You can’t sell that as a Grade A turkey so you’ll sell that as a Utility turkey. It might be 50 cents cheaper a pound,” Sanagan says. “There’s nothing wrong with Utility birds. If they’re from the same farm, they’re raised the same way. It’s just that something happened to them that makes them less visually appealing.”
FRESH OVER FROZEN
Go fresh rather than frozen with your Thanksgiving turkey. Chef Lora Kirk, owner of Toronto’s Ruby Watchco, says this isn’t because frozen turkeys aren’t as good: “But it’s one less step; don’t create more factors than you need to. Sometimes the simplest is tastiest.” If you are working from frozen, make sure you’ve accounted for the space you need to thaw it. Gone are the days of putting a frozen turkey in the sink or on the counter, thanks to what we’ve learned from food safety science.
“There are two different methods; one is in a fridge and the other is a cold water method,” Crocker says. “In the cold water method, you put it into a large container — a really big soup pot or a big cooler — that you can leave on the counter. You cover it completely with cold water and you change the water every hour and that allows it to thaw at a safe temperature.” According to the Turkey Farmers of Canada, allow five hours of thawing time per pound if using the refrigerator method, and an hour per pound if using the cold water method. Be sure to keep your turkey refrigerated once thawed, and cook it within 48 hours.
PREPPING THE BIRD: BRINING
Brining entails soaking for six to 24 hours in a solution of salt, sugar and aromatics (see instructions). To brine or not to brine comes down to personal taste. Many who brine never turn back, and Kirk says has converted quite a few home cooks to the method, including her mother (see recipe for Maple and Stout Brined Turkey on G15). “I find that it gives inexperienced or novice cooks peace of mind, and a little more confidence,” she says. “When you brine it, you increase the chances that the turkey is going to be moist and not overcooked. You have another chance to infuse more flavour to make it more exciting and just a better turkey at the end of the day.”
Jerry Meneses, executive chef of Cumbrae’s in Toronto, agrees brining is effective with poultry but prefers to roast his turkey without. “With a regular roasted bird, you can add wonderful flavours and moisture to it, too. Tucking butter or compound butters underneath the skin of the bird so that it’s directly on the white meat can have the same effect,” he says. Meneses likes to make compound butters using fresh herb mixtures (rosemary, thyme), roasted garlic, lemon juice or bone marrow. Whether or not to stuff your bird again comes down to personal taste. If stuffing the cavity, the key is to use your trusty meat thermometer to ensure your stuffing reaches a safe internal temperature of at least 165 F (74 C). It’s not enough to simply measure the thigh or breast to determine doneness. Stuffing will add to the cooking time, but as Crocker points out, it can also add flavour and moisture to the meat. “I like to stuff the bird because I like the way that the juices from the bird go into the stuffing. And because I put dried fruits into my stuffing, that helps to add a little bit of moisture to the meat as well,” she says.