OFF THE BEATEN PATH IN ICELAND
Dramatic landscapes showcase rich diversity
Hal Borland wrote that to know trees is to understand the meaning of patience and to know grass is to understand persistence, but in Iceland to know a tree is to understand both patience and persistence. On our first evening in Iceland, a friendly waiter in the tiny town of Stykkisholmur asked where my husband and I were from. When we told him we were from Canada, he simply said, “Canada has trees.”
There aren’t many trees in Iceland, but “the land of fire and ice” is home to some of the most dramatic landscapes on the planet. Lush valleys, rugged fjords, volcanic mountains, rainbow crested waterfalls, enormous glaciers and steaming geothermal areas are so surreal they have sparked legends and inspired the resourceful quirkiness of the locals.
Most visitors confine their explorations to the region surrounding the capital city of Reykjavik. And while there are some spectacular sights to see in what has been dubbed the Golden Circle, to really understand the rich diversity of the country and its landscapes you need to go off the beaten path.
As we circled the island on a recent journey, a few stops really stood out from the rest as we attempted to do just that.
FLATEY ISLAND
If you take the Baldur Ferry (seatours.is) from Stykkisholmur to Brjanslaekur or back, you can make a 6.5 hour stop on the tiny island of Flatey. At about 2 kilometres long and 1 kilometre wide, the island has one hotel, a historic old church, one car and about 12 tractors, but the real highlight is the abundant bird life. We spent a lovely afternoon watching puffins fishing.
DYNJANDI WATERFALL
The sparsely populated Westfjords are everything you imagine Iceland to be and the breathtaking Dynjandi Waterfalls are a scenic highlight. This series of waterfalls has a cumulative height of 100 metres and trails lead right up to the base of the largest one. Be warned — you get to the falls on a gravel road with sharp turns, sheer drops and no guardrails.
SKAGAFJOROUR DISTRICT
Icelandic- Canadian poet Stephan G. Stephansson (stephangstephansson.com) was born in the Skagafjorour district of Northern Iceland on Oct. 3, 1853, but he wrote his poetry on a farm near Markerville, Alta. He was such a renowned poet that his Alberta home was designated a provincial historic site. There is also a monument near his hometown in Iceland. You can visit the monument and the Icelandic Emigration Centre (en.hofsos.is) in Hofsos to discover the story of Icelandic emigration to North America.
SEYDISFJORDUR
Surrounded by snowcapped mountains and stunning waterfalls, this picturesque artist’s town is one of the prettiest in east Iceland. The short drive from Egilsstaoir passes a number of beautiful waterfalls along the river Fjaroara. (visitseydisfjordur.com)
FJAORARGLJUFUR CANYON
This magnificent canyon is about two kilometres long and 100 metres deep and winds its way through bedrock that is thought to be about two million years old. There’s a walking trail along the top of the canyon and several waterfalls inside it. The canyon is a short drive off the ring road in south Iceland. (south.is/en)
VESTMANNAEYJAR
It’s easy and inexpensive to catch a ferry to Heimaey, the only inhabited island of the Westman Islands (visitwestmanislands.com) in southern Iceland. The island is famous for its bird life, its outdoor festival, great dining and its volcano museum, which is sometimes referred to as the Pompeii of the North.
HOLAVALLAGAROUR CEMETERY
According to one local who gave us an impromptu tour, the history of Iceland lies buried in this beautiful old Reykjavik cemetery. The cemetery is the final resting place of Iceland’s most famous inhabitants. Some of the country’s oldest and most beautiful trees are also found here.
WOW AIRLINES
Wow Air (wowair.com) commenced service from Toronto and Montreal in May with one-way flights to Iceland starting at $99 plus tax. This budget airline allows for one small carry-on bag (10 kilograms maximum) and one personal item per passenger and does not provide any free food or drink during flights. You can bring your own food and drinks onto the aircraft or purchase them on-board. Additional baggage allowance is available for an added charge. We found the plane comfortable and the service we experienced was friendly and competent. We also discovered that prices for tickets vary depending on the dates of travel, but seat sales can provide significantly lower fares. It’s also possible to visit Iceland as a stopover on a flight to Europe. European fares with Wow Air start at $149 one-way from Toronto or Montreal.