THE ‘EXPERIENTIAL’ TOURIST
Puerto Vallarta offers an adventure
Lucky me to land in the Pacific coast resort town of Puerto Vallarta as an “experiential” tourist.
That’s the name given to a growing number of travellers who seek a more authentic experience through closer encounters with locals and their culture.
The trend is being embraced by tour companies offering more experiential, adventurous options.
As such, my five-day itinerary as a guest of the Puerto Vallarta Tourism Board gave me a personal appreciation of the locale with virtually no time wasted. Like me, you might want to consider riding shotgun with a nationally acclaimed chef en route to his restaurant after a lively trip to the local market, downing a shot of raicilla standing in the agave field from which it’s produced, and cheering on local lads playing football on a hidden beach in the Bay of Banderas.
TO MARKET
Easy to work up an appetite tagging along with Chef Hugo Ahumada as he selects fresh produce at Puerto Vallarta’s historic old town market for our lunch. At the family-owned Frutas Baca we’re surrounded by fresh fruit and vegetables and exotic homemade juices, herbs and honeys line the shelves.
A few metres away it’s fascinating to watch Rafael cut off the feet of otherwise ready-for-market chickens from the back of a pickup truck.
A moment later I glimpse someone called Antonio pop up from a manhole on the cobbled street.
We taste our way through several stalls, mini kitchens, cafes and butcher shops including Tortilleriay Molino La Hija Del Maiz where we indulge in a tasty corn tortilla.
Back on the street, Dulce is shaving the prickles from cactus and Joel is mixing us a jug of refreshing tuba, a traditional coastal drink made from coconut palm sap, plus mixed nuts and sometimes apple, crushed corn, salt and lime.
In the courtyard of Maia, Chef Hugo’s restaurant, also the name of his young daughter, we are invited to help prep the food.
Lunch, including watermelon soup and a vegetable and fruit medley with shrimp is all the more delicious with its origins still fresh in our minds.
Maia, under Chef Hugo’s experienced and passionate leadership, is renowned for traditional Mexican recipes using local and organic ingredients. He has worked as a chef in London, Chile and Switzerland and continues to participate in world-cuisine conferences. His interest in cooking and “the magic of food,” he tells me, was nurtured as a young boy in Mexico by his mother and grandmother.
“When food is made with love, you feel it,” he adds with a smile.
MARVELLOUS MALECON
Wonderful to embrace Puerto Vallarta’s seaside promenade, the city’s major tourist attraction but also a big draw for locals. Palm trees, artsy sculptures, sand and sweet sunsets line one side of the one-kilometre stretch. While the other is chock full of art galleries, markets, nightclubs and a variety of eateries. See visitmexico.com/en/maleconin-puerto-vallarta-jalisco-mexico
ARTWALK THIS WAY
The city’s historic downtown is home to numerous art galleries with eight participating in the 21st annual ArtWalk on now through May 31. Ga leria Colectika inspired us with its lively and exquisite art, both contemporary and ancestral, by Mexican artists. It’s curated by Toronto native Kevin Simpson. Free guides and maps are available. See VallartaArtWalk.com
BABY SEA TURTLES
Puerto Vallarta has been operating sea turtle conservation programs for more than 30 years through various hotels. Following a brief lecture on the life of turtles and the hazards they face, it’s possible for guests to observe hatchlings make their way across the beach to the water. The release is done at night, June through December, depending on conditions.
See puertovallarta.net/ what_ to_do/puerto-vallarta-sea-turtlesprotection-program.php
BAY OF BANDERAS
From our Titanic arms-in-theair (Queen and) King-of-the world moments, to snorkelling to lolling on board watching the view from our 18-metre luxury yacht, suffice to say our tour of the Bay of Banderas went swimmingly.
We were in good hands with the professional crew of Mike’s Charters and Tours.
It turns out the cove is a local sweet spot for families and friends, some who made their way through a jungle path.
As well as snorkelling at Los Ar- cos Mismaloya, our yacht docked at Mike’s Fishing Beach Club where colourful hammocks, a massive iguana and a luncheon feast of red snapper greeted us.
Back at the Marina Vallarta, a handsome pelican was dockside to welcome us home. See pvmikesfishing.com
MOUNTAIN HIGH
Hard to pick a favourite from our half-day excursion to the colonial village of San Sebastian del Oeste.
Standing among a field of green agave, sipping the raicilla these plants will eventually produce — similar in flavour to tequila or mescal — was a highlight.
But learning from Eduardo Sanchez the passion he and his family pour into the distillery process of the storied Mexican spirit is intriguing, too. The plants take seven to eight years to mature. The best variety, agave maximiliana, he tells us, grows only in the mountains.
Raicilla originates in this region and was traditionally distilled as moonshine.
Today it’s legally sold and is increasing in popularity, Sanchez says.
The 70-minute drive up the Sierra Madre Mountains provided wonderful views.
And roaming the historic village, engaging with residents and colourful roosters that had the run of the place resulted in some of my favourite photos.
COOL COMFORT
We were greeted outside the lobby of the posh Hotel Casa Velas by turtles and colourful koi.
Inside, men dressed in impeccable white shirts and trousers are at the ready, opening every door with a smile.
The tropical gardens are lush and the massive pool sports a swim-up bar.
A few resident peacocks and iguanas roam the property, which includes an 18- hole golf course and luxurious spa.
Like the spa’s signature lime and orange scent? Request it for your suite.
The gated adults-only resort was a serene paradise for a morning wander, and the private pool attached to my artsy-marble suite, the perfect spot to sip a tequila sunrise and reflect on the day’s adventure.
For more information visit puertovallarta.com