GREAT WAR OVER DAIRY
U.S. farms suffer big losses in increasingly hostile dispute with Canada over price of milk
Seven generations of Gartmans have birthed calves in this barn, a white-roofed, red-sided structure within a short walk of the land the first Gartmans are buried on.
But the bull that Luke Gartman, 36, pulled into the world on a recent Tuesday morning was a special one. This calf could be one of the very last calves ever born on the Gartmans’ farm. The family has two weeks to find a new dairy processing company to buy their milk and sell it into the market. The contract with their existing buyer was just cancelled, the latest casualty of an increasingly acrimonious trade war with Canada over the price of ultra-filtered milk, an ingredient used in cheese.
“We could be in a situation where we have to sell the cows,” said Gartman’s brother Matt. “If we’re to that point of May 1 and have no solutions — well, we would no longer be a dairy farm.”
The dispute — which has played out in surprisingly barbed remarks across the normally friendly northern border — illustrates the enormous complexity of fulfilling President Donald Trump’s promise to renegotiate the North American Free Trade Agreement, the free trade pact with Canada and Mexico. While NAFTA is often portrayed as a single trade agreement to be negotiated, it has specific provisions affecting thousands of products in hundreds of industries. The trade pact contains terms governing dozens of different dairy products alone.
Re working many of these, experts say, will involve not just complex technical discussions but a fight between powerful political interests on both sides of the border. And in almost every case, on the line will be the livelihoods of the people who grow or make the products. This dispute has already affected 75 family farms, caused more than US$150 million in losses, and prompted a bipartisan alliance of lawmakers to demand that Trump deliver on his tough talk about protecting U.S. industries from unfair trade practices.
“This could certainly become an issue in any attempt to renegotiate NAFTA,” said Luis Ribera, an agricultural economist at Texas A&M who studies North American trade. “Once you open NAFTA, everything is theoretically on the table for debate.”
The dairy industry, like much of agriculture, has never been predictable. But until receiving the cancellation letter earlier this month from their processor, Grassland Dairy Products, the Gartmans at least knew where their milk would end up.
The milk travels 312 kilometres west to Greenwood, Wis., where Grassland processes it into butter, cream, dry milk powder and a high-protein milk concentrate called ultra-filtered milk. The bulk of ultra-filtered milk is then shipped to Canada and used as a protein added to cheese.
At least that’s how it was until April of last year. That’s when dairy farmers in Ontario took steps that undermined their U.S. competitors. Trade agreements between the United States and Canada govern what kinds of tariffs the countries can impose on each other’s goods. While NAFTA eliminated many tariffs between the countries, some large tariffs on dairy remained.
But ultrafiltered milk hit the market after NAFTA’s 1994 enactment. As a result, it could enter Canada without facing big tariffs.
Ontario farmers, frustrated with the arrangement, last April dramatically cut the prices on Canadian ultra-filtered milk. Other provinces plan to follow suit, posing a dire threat to U.S. farms.
Companies such as Grassland and New York’s Cayuga Milk Ingredients have already reported losses of US$150 million since the price drop began.
American agricultural interests have decried Canada’s actions as deeply unfair.
“Our federal and state governments cannot abide by Canada’s disregard for its trade commitment to the United States,” Tom Vilsack, president of the U.S. Dairy Export Council and former secretary of agriculture under president Barack Obama, said in a statement. Canada, he continued, has “pursue(d) policies that are choking off sales of Americanmade milk to the detriment of U.S. dairy farmers.”
The Canadian dairy industry disputes these allegations, arguing that U.S. milk producers have built far too much capacity in recent years and face such an oversupply of milk that they have to cut back.
“To use a phrase that has recently come out of the U.S., Wisconsin farmers are using alternative facts,” said Isabelle Bouchard, the director of communications and government relations at the industry group Dairy Farmers of Canada. “The Wisconsin people are trying to find an enemy — when in reality the problem they have is that they’re overproducing.”
With dairy farmers scrambling to find new markets for their milk, a bipartisan alliance of policymakers, including Democratic New York Gov. Andrew Cuomo, and Republican Wisconsin Gov. Scott Walker have called on the Canadian government to intervene in its dairy industry. Senators Tammy Baldwin and Ron Johnson of Wisconsin joined a statement by Speaker of the House Paul Ryan this month that alleged that the new pricing policies “appear to violate Canada’s existing trade obligations to the United States.”
Industry groups, meanwhile, have called on the Trump administration to intervene directly. Several powerful dairy trade associations sent a joint letter to Trump, asking that he push Prime Minister Justin Trudeau on the issue and direct U.S. agencies to “impress upon Canada in a concrete way the importance of dependable U.S. trade.” The letter called on Trump to escalate the issue to the World Trade Organization if Canada doesn’t respond positively.
Industry is also concerned the dispute could spill into other products. The Ontario price drop applied not only to ultrafiltered milk but also to skim milk powder, which could eventually result in Canadians selling more of the ingredient on global markets. That could depress prices for American farmers, and ultimately hurt them even more.
The White House has not yet taken action and did not immediately respond to a request for comment.
The escalating rhetoric has begun to alarm some Canadians. “A lot of people are very nervous in Canada because of Mr. Trump’s statements about trade,” said Sylvain Charlebois, a professor of food policy at Dalhousie University in Halifax. “You could easily see the U.S. refusing to buy Canadian beef, for instance, unless Canada opened its dairy markets.”
(The dairy trade dispute) could certainly become an issue in any attempt to renegotiate NAFTA.