Rounding up rosés for summer days on the patio
Wine trends come and go, but some become permanent and welcome fixtures in the everwidening realm, and the rosé category is a notable example of this phenomena.
Dry rosé wines have been fashionable in Europe for generations, but in North America we had to suffer through iterations such as white Zinfandel and other cloying pink concoctions before the classic dry style took hold.
You can now find a good selection of rosé wines all year-round and a vast selection during the summer months. They are versatile, refreshing wines that quench the palate in the summer and help remind us that warmth and light will eventually return during the long dark days of winter.
Need more proof as to the charm of rosé? Apparently, Justin Bieber has discovered the wine — now being dubbed “Brosé.” Here is a nice cross-section to try:
MIRAVAL COTES DU PROVENCE 2016 - $ 28
This wine gained instant fame when it was disclosed that this is a project between the Pitt/ Jolie consortium and the Perrin family (of Chateau Beaucastel fame). To make it, they get Brad Pitt on a treadmill and — using the latest technologies — extract as much of his manly essence as he can possibly spare, his “mojo” so to speak, and it tastes like pure Hollywood. At least that's what I like to tell people, but the reality is that it is a blend of Cinsault, Grenache, Rolle and Syrah, a seriously good rosé with considerable body and complexity. The Jolie-Pitts purchased Miraval for a reported $60 million US in 2008, but their split may well lead to a sale of the property. The winery will likely survive regardless of ownership).
FEUDUCCIO CERASUOLO D’ABRUZZO 2016 - $ 23
Cerasuolo d'Abruzzo is a DOC devoted solely to the rosé style, much like Tavel in France's Rhone Valley. This one is made entirely from Montepulciano from Abruzzi. It's almost like a light red with lots of cherry/strawberry fruit and a whiff of spice — a great choice for burgers.
JOIE ROSÉ 2016 - $ 30
Joie's wines consistently rank among B.C.'s best, but the previ- ous vintages of the rosé carried some residual sugar and as a result I found it a little confectioned for my taste. That style is no more, however. The wine is now fully dry and delicious, full of vibrant red fruits and backed by lively acidity, like a big bowl of summer berries in a glass.
GRUBER ROSCHITZ ST LAURENT ROSÉ 2016 - $ 24
Austrian wines are starting to see better distribution in North America and that's good news because there are some truly great wines produced there that deserve much better exposure. St. Laurent is an aromatic red varietal that we don't see much of, but when done well it delivers a big, fruit-driven style of red and, in this case, a firstrate rosé. There's lots of spice
RACINE COTES DE PROVENCE ROSÉ - $ 18
Racine's wines offer value in spades across the board and the rosé is no exception. This is classic Provencal rosé, pale salmon in colour with notes of watermelon, wild strawberries and a nice subtle floral note. Pair it with a Nicoise salad for a taste of Provencal summer.
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Geoff Last is a long-time Calgary wine merchant, writer and broadcaster and a regular contributor to City Palate Magazine and other publications. He teaches food and wine at the Cookbook Company Cooks and was recently awarded a fellowship to the Symposium of Professional Wine Writers based in Napa Valley.