SKIN CARE AT EVERY AGE
Dermatologists’ tips and tricks to keep skin glowing
It will likely come as no surprise to hear that aging is an increasingly common point of discussion between dermatologists and their patients.
But what may come as a surprise is how early some people are beginning to think about looking and getting older.
“Trends are pointing toward people being more proactive,” says Dr. Sonya Abdulla, of Dermatology on Bloor in Toronto.
“We’re seeing people in their 20s requesting products that are going to be preventing or reducing sun damage and the first signs of aging. Whereas before people were waiting until those first signs of aging were more apparent, and then only acting at that point.”
This premature preoccupation with anti-aging has even been given its own name: “pre-juvenation.”
“The idea is that an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure,” explains Dr. Mark Lupin, of Cosmedica in Victoria. “Certainly, it is much easier to have both beautifullooking skin as well as healthy skin if we look after the skin at an earlier time in our lives.”
So, what are some of the biggest skin-care concerns related to signs of aging?
According to Lupin, it’s a laundry list of issues that include dry skin, brown spots, wrinkles, broken capillaries, and saggy skin.
“Skin health is also a focus,” he says.
An effective skin care routine doesn’t have to be overly complicated. Skin-care experts say that simpler really is better.
“A daily sunscreen is always going to be a part of any woman, or even any man’s, routine; an antioxidant, vitamin E being the most common but there are others such as blueberry extract or black tea, that are going to be helpful for scavenging free radicals and limited oxidative damage to the skin; and lastly, something that’s going to boost collagen production and limit fine lines while improving skin texture, like retinol,” Abdulla says. “That is really the trifecta.”
Despite countless new additions to the skin-care ranks, experts maintain the best way to promote skin health overall, is by preventing sun damage.
“It is estimated that approximately 90 per cent of the signs of aging are due to photo-aging, i.e. excess sun exposure over a lifetime,” Lupin says. “We know that other environmental insults such as smoking and pollution also take their toll.”
How much sun protection factor is enough? It’s recommended people of all ages incorporate a broadspectrum sun block (UVA and UVB blocking) with approximately 60 SPF into their daily routine, no matter the time of year.
“Certainly during the summer months, but also year-round, if you’re able,” Dr. Abdulla says. “We do still get UV exposure even in the winter months, particularly reflection off the snow.”
While it’s never a good idea to cut sunscreen from your daily regime, it is important to switch up your regime as your skin changes throughout the years.
“Skin is something that is constantly in evolution, through seasonal change, and through time. So, your needs over a certain number of months or years are going to be different,” Abdulla says. “As we get older, we need to change up our routines in order to address those changes.”
While there’s nothing wrong with having go-to skin-care products, you may find something isn’t working as well as it once did, which means it’s time to go shopping. Abdulla says shoppers should do their homework on a prospective product before making a purchase in order to ensure it will not only address particular skin-care concerns, but that it also works.
“Skin care is a huge industry, and there’s a lot of marketing that goes into it as well,” Abdulla says.
“So there are a number of things I get patients to think about when they’re purchasing a product.”
“First, what is the active ingredient, what type of reputation does it have and what type of data exists around that ingredient? Secondly, have any clinical studies been done? If the clinical (studies) have been done but not released or communicated, that isn’t enough. It should be published data that’s available in the public domain to see if that product, not just the particular ingredient, works. Reputation of the company that makes the product is also important. Lastly, is tolerability. If it’s a product your skin cannot tolerate, there is no point in using it.
“You really have to take all those things into consideration when picking a product because it’s an investment in time, and an investment in you.”
Consulting with a dermatologist about skin-care concerns, possible products and treatments can often be helpful for saving time and money — as well as seeing results.
“Proper skin care and office treatments should be tailored to each individual,” Lupin says. “It is highly recommended to see a dermatologist to help guide the journey.”
Thinking it’s time for an in-office treatment of some kind? Lupin says consider one of the four “Rs:” Resurfacing through treatments such as Clear+Brilliant to improve skin quality; re-firming through Fotona skin tightening, Theramage or Ulthera to firm up saggy skin, and lift the brows; relaxing through the use of Botox, Xeomin or Dysport for stressed areas such as the frown area, and crows’ feet; and refilling areas that have lost support and volume with hyaluronic dermal fillers such as Juvederm, Belotero or Teosyal.
Research and discussions with a dermatologist are essential for finding the perfect treatment, and for managing expectations of outcomes. Skin care in general, and anti-aging regimes specifically, should be tailor-made to your individual concerns and skin type.
“At the end of the day, it’s all based on your needs,” Abdulla says.
“It’s your genetic makeup, your tendency to age more slowly or more quickly. It’s your sun exposure and whether not you wear sunscreen — all these will drive the progression or the prevention of aging.”