Herald drinks writer heads west, says farewell
Cocktail columnist Lisa Kadane serves up a spirited farewell as she prepares to ride west
I’ve always loved the expression, “This ain’t my first rodeo.” In Calgary, you can say it to communicate, quite literally, that you’ve been to the Calgary Stampede before. Or that you’ve weathered the city’s flood season, and celebrated another dry basement (four years in a row, post-2013!), over cocktails at The Nash.
There isn’t a similar expression to mark doing something for the last time. You can tell people you’re heading off to new adventures, and in my case that’s true — I’m moving to Kelowna, land of lakes, hot summers and wine! But I prefer to refer to my last Spirited Calgary column for the Calgary Herald as, “This cowgirl’s last rodeo.” It’s both my last Stampede and my final story on the city’s cocktail scene (complete with Stampede-friendly drink recipes!). But before we lasso up some thirst-quenching cowpoke quaffs, let’s wax nostalgic.
When I started this column in 2010, I confessed at the time that I was more of a beer or wine girl, but one who’d always fantasized about having a “go-to cocktail.” I planned to treat my new beat as a vehicle for discovering delicious, balanced drinks that I could (and would) actually make at home.
“This column will be a journey in search of those elusive, palettepleasing cocktails that are just labour intensive enough to be worth the effort,” I wrote. Though I sometimes featured drinks with unusual ingredients and compli- cated recipes, I stuck to my rule of only writing about cocktails I actually liked. What’s interesting, though, is how my tastes changed as Calgary’s cocktail culture came into its own.
The first drink I wrote about was the Sky 360 Martini, a sweet vodka and juice drink served in a martini glass. I liked it at the time, sure, but I wonder how it would go down now that I’ve discovered spirit-forward sippers? Besides, back then every restaurant in Calgary featured a martini menu, so I’m pleading the fifth on whether I ever really liked vodka.
In the years since, I’ve written about the rise of gin, Pisco and mescal; I’ve reported on the resurgence of classic cocktails; I’ve chronicled the tiki drink revival, pop-up cocktail trend and bartenders’ obsession with bitters; and I’ve toasted the rebirth of Canadian rye thanks to Crown Royal’s Northern Harvest being named 2016 World Whisky of the Year. I’ve sampled car camping cocktails from the comfort of a camper van, created a potent rum punch for a school fundraiser, and travelled around Canada and beyond in pursuit of spirits.
It’s been quite a ride and some cocktails have really stood out, far and near. The coconut-chili margarita from Anejo. The Amaretto sour at Earls. That Cherry Whisky Sour I tried at the Lake House. Off Cut Bar’s Buckskin Sour. Especially that one. Do you sense a trend? I found out that I really like sours!
But let’s not forget Model Milk’s Black Manhattan, Proof’s Bagasse or the Living Room’s Negroni.
I also can’t believe I lived for 40 years before discovering Pimm’s and the many ways you can elevate a traditional Pimm’s Cup, such as in the Pimmy Gibbler from Cannibale. And lately, I’ve become besotted with bubbles, appreciating real Champagne and fizzy cocktails like my current summer favourite, the Aperol Spritz.
Most of all, I hope you — my readers — have gained some spirited knowledge and appreciation along the way, and maybe even discovered your own go-to cocktail.
As it turns out, I don’t really have a go-to; what I’m shaking at home depends on my mood and the season. But for Stampede 2017 I can recommend a few top picks mentioned above — the Buckskin Sour, Pimmy Gibbler and Aperol Spritz — with recipes at right.
One thing has remained the same over the years, however: my love of margaritas. So it’s only natural I end Spirited Calgary with a Texas-born twist on a margarita that’s perfect for Cowtown’s annual rodeo: the Pickled Cowboy (recipe below). The orange juice adds a fresh sweetness to this delicious drink, while the hot pickled okra juice gives it a spicy and vinegary hit. It’s refreshing and dangerous, the perfect combination to keep you somewhat hydrated and slightly pickled during The Greatest Outdoor Show on Earth. I plan to drink one before heading west.