A review of 10 wines — some naughty, some nice
From robust reds to delicious whites, here’s a palate-pleasing selection
So, I’ve made my list, drank it twice (or more), and now I am pretty sure I know which wines are naughty and which ones are nice. My standard disclaimer after doing this list for many years is that there really is no such thing as a definitive “best of” list for any pleasure as subjective as wine. That’s why I don’t rate wine; one person’s 95 points is another’s 85 and at the end of the day, no one is right. The wine that gives you the most pleasure is the winner, regardless of price or scores.
As such, this list is my usual collection of wines I have enjoyed immensely over the past year. All are available at the time of print although some will be harder to find than others, depending on production volume and distribution in Alberta. I hope you enjoy these as much as I did, and I would like to wish all the Herald readers the best of the holiday season and a great new year! Cheers!
Raventos i Blanc L’hereu Blanc de Blancs 2015:
$30 Readers of this column will likely know that I am a huge fan of this producer. For my money, they make the best sparkling wines outside of Champagne and their wines easily rival many Champagnes costing twice as much. It is a blend of three indigenous white grapes — Macabeu, Xarel·lo and Parellada — all grown and vinified biodynamically. There is abundant minerality interwoven seamlessly with stone fruits and citrus, a serious bottle of fizz for the money. Their de Nit rose is also exceptional for a few dollars more.
Le Casematte Nero d’Avola 2015:
$20
There is a lot of Nero d’Avola grown in southern Italy, but a lot of it can be a little baked and unremarkable. Sicily is a special place for wine with unique terroirs and, as a result, this one rises well above the usual. It is grown in Butera, situated in southern Sicily, utilizing organic farming practices while showing a big core of black cherry fruit with some Christmas spice notes (nutmeg, clove). A great everyday bargain ideal with things like pizza and tomato pasta dishes.
Domaine Mourges du Gres Terre d’Argence Blanc 2015:
$32 This winery is best known for its excellent red wines, but scored a major hit with this white, a blend of Viognier, Roussanne and Petit Manseng. The vineyards are situated in the Pont du Gard IGP, situated near the famous Roman aqueduct bearing the same name. Stone fruits (peach, apricot) dominate along with minerals and a whiff of tropical fruit, a rich, full-bodied white that would go beautifully with turkey or roast pork. The importer tells me that distribution on this one is limited to a handful of stores.
Senorio de la Antigua Mencia 2012:
$15
This is the bargain of the year for me, a rare $15 wine that rises way above its price point to deliver a robust red with loads of character. It is produced in Spain’s Bierzo region in Castilla y Leon from 30- to 50-year-old vines and displays black/ blueberries with hints of nutmeg and herbs and a fair bit of tannic grip (Mencia tends to deliver a lot of tannin). Try it with game, lamb and beef.
Il Feuduccio Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo 2016:
$22
The world has gone mad for dry rosé and for good reason; they are refreshing, versatile wines that offer a lot of pleasure for not a lot of money. Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo is an Italian DOC dedicated specifically to rosé and of all the many pink wines I drank this year, this was my favourite. It is produced from Montepulciano and is bursting with a fruit cocktail of cherries and white peaches followed by some floral/ spice notes. It would go perfectly with turkey or roasted salmon.
Fanti Sassomagno Saint’ Antimo Rosso 2014:
$22
Fanti is a well-known Brunello producer situated just south of Montalcino in Italy’s stunning Tuscan region. 2014 was a tough vintage for most of Italy (and most of Europe for that matter), but the upside is that a lot of fruit earmarked for top wines ended up being declassified and used in the entry-level range as is the case here. It is a blend of Sangiovese, Cabernet, Merlot and Syrah, a juicy red wine full of blackberries and plums with soft fleshy tannins; all in all, a super Tuscan at a super price.
La Rioja Alta Vina Ardanza Reserva 2008:
$67
La Rioja Alta’s wines have been absent from our market for years now and that is a shame because they are one of the few traditional high-quality producers left in the Rioja (it’s basically them and Lopez de Heredia). This is the most expensive wine on the list, a lovely mature wine showing notes of dried cherries, leather, pipe tobacco and herbs. The cost is largely attributed to the fact that the winery has done the aging for you and it represents an opportunity to try a great example of a perfectly mature wine. Lovely stuff, great to have them back.
Chateau de Corcelles Les Copains d’Alord Gamay 2016:
$21 Gamay is an under-appreciated red grape with great versatility as a food mate. Abundant bright red berry fruit is its calling card along with lively acidity and a hint of minerals. This one is classic in that regard, an ideal red to serve with turkey or ham (serve it lightly chilled). If you can’t find a nice French bistro this wine will bring a little bistro to your own table.
Anselmo Mendes Alvarinho Contacto 2016:
$26
This was easily one of my favourite white wines this year, a delicious white from Portugal’s Vinho Verde region. The term contacto refers to skin contact which is not normal for white wines (this style is often referred to as “orange” wine). In this case, it’s not enough to turn it orange, but enough to add an extra dimension of complexity. It is zesty and fresh with notes of green apple and citrus with a slight saline component.
Cascina Adelaide Barolo 2013:
$44
High-quality Barolo is rare at this price, especially when it’s this good. Barolos tend to be a little mean and tannic when young but after time in the cellar they mature into a wine experience unlike any other. This one is ready to drink now although I would recommend decanting for a couple of hours prior to serving. It is a classic example — minus the aggressive tannins — showing notes of red fruits and forest floor with that intriguing rose floral note that marks the Nebbiolo grape (the sole varietal for Barolo). Not widely available, but well worth searching out. Looking for wine in Alberta? Go to www.liquorconnect.com
Geoff Last is a longtime Calgary wine merchant, writer and broadcaster and a regular contributor to City Palate Magazine and other publications. He instructs on food and wine at the Cookbook Company Cooks and was recently awarded a fellowship to the Symposium of Professional Wine Writers based in Napa Valley.