I F YOU GO

WHERE TO STAY

Hotel Molokai

1300 Kamehameha V Hwy., Kaunakakai hotelmolokai.com

Modelled after a traditional Polyne- sian village, the island’s main hotel is close to the small downtown in Kaunakakai. Rates are generally US$169-$259.

WHERE TO EAT

Kualapuu Cookhouse

102 Farrington Ave., Kualapuu bit.ly/Kualapuu-Cookhouse

A local favourite, with yummy casual Hawaiian plates such as teriyaki, stir-fry, lemon chicken, grilled mahi mahi, ribs and stuffed shrimp. Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner most days. Breakfast plates $2-$18, lunch $5-17 and dinner $5-$37 (all U.S.). Cash only.

Kanemitsu Bakery and Coffee Shop

79 Ala Malama St., Kaunakakai bit.ly/ Kanemitsus Bakery

A popular hangout with freshbaked breads and pastries. Around 7:30 p.m. most weeknights and 7 p.m. weekends, locals head down a small lane to the bakery’s back door to buy hot loaves of bread ($8-$10.25) filled with strawberry, cinnamon, blueberry, cream cheese and butter flavourings. They are traditionally eaten in one sitting.

WHAT TO DO

Kalaupapa National Historical Park and guided mule tour

Highway 470, Mile Marker 5, Kualapuu muleride.com

Make mule-trip reservations well in advance and call close to your expedition: Trips are subject to weather and other conditions affecting trail safety. Cost is US$230 per person, including taxes and fees.

Fee includes a sandwich lunch, a guided bus tour with Kekaula Tours and permits. If you plan to hike, you can also book that through the mule operators. Cost of hike, with permit, sack lunch and guided bus tour is $87, with taxes and fees, and you must be 16 or older.

Make sure you’re in shape for a steep, rugged, 10-kilometre roundtrip trek. Take plenty of water and snacks.