Calvados the (liquid) apple of my eye
Grapes are grown throughout most of France but once you head north of the Loire Valley and west of Paris the landscape makes an agricultural shift from vineyards to orchards. The region is frequently buffeted by the cold winds of the Atlantic Ocean, making it too cold to produce quality wine, but ideal for the cultivation of apples and pears. This is Normandy and in the classic French manner, the fruits of these orchards are transformed into numerous gastronomic pleasures, most notably cider and Calvados, the latter a brandy distilled from cider to create a spirit that can rival Cognac or fine Armagnac.
Calvados has existed in some form since the 8th century, but the first documented production was in 1554 by Lord Gilles de Gouberville. He was responsible for developing myriad apple cultivars now known as Goubervillean varietals. He discovered that many of the 40-plus varietals he grew were unsuitable as table fruit but ideal for producing cider and he conducted trials to determine which strains would deliver the best results. Today, there are hundreds of cider cultivars grown in Normandy and many producers will incorporate over 100 of these into a single cider. The varietals tend to fall into one of four basic flavour categories; sweet, bitter, bittersweet and acid. Like wine, Calvados has AOC status in France and the key regions include Calvados, Orne and Manche. Within Calvados is the sub-appellation of Pays d’Auge that is thought to yield the finest examples of the spirit. Production of Calvados is relatively simple; the apples are pressed and the resulting juice has stability and concentration of flavour. It undergoes either a single (in a column still) or double (in an alembic pot still) distillation. The rules for Pays d’Auge stipulate a double alembic distillation and a minimum of two years aging in oak barrels although the finest examples are typically aged much longer, sometimes up to 30 years (or more).
Most liquor stores carry Boulard Calvados, a basic version that sells for about $30. It is a kitchen staple in my house as it is ideal for deglazing pans and flavouring dishes such as pork tenderloin or a tarte Tatin. Things get serious when you look to such notable producers as Christian Drouin, Pierre Huet and, somewhat miraculously, Adrien Camut. I say miraculously because Adrien Camut is widely regarded as the best of the best and their production is small, making them difficult to find even in cities like New York where they sell out instantly. As luck would have it, a local importer recently secured a sizable allocation of Camut, so you will be able to find them in a few select retail locations. As Calvados ages, the apple notes become subtle and the spirit starts to resemble Cognac or Armagnac and, as such, this vastly underappreciated spirit is well worth a taste. Here are a few to try: Christian Drouin XO Calvados Pays d’Auge — $82
By law, XO Calvados must age for a minimum of six years in cask prior to bottling, which means there is a premium to be paid for the investment of time. This is very reasonably priced for such a high-quality spirit from a small family-run domaine. It is silky and delicious with a nice balance between the apple flavours and the alcohol component.
Calvados Pierre Huet Tradition 15-years-old — $110
This producer has been at it for five generations and, like Christian Drouin, is highly respected. With 15 years of age behind it, you will find subtle apple notes backed by the wood flavours typically found in any spirit that spends this much time in cask. As a side note, virtually any spirit that is cask aged, be it single malt whisky, Calvados or Cognac, will be dominated by the flavours imparted by the barrel. In this case, 15 years in cask imparts typical wood notes but there is still enough of an apple component to keep things interesting.
Adrien Camut Calvados — sixyear-old $102, 12-year-old $152, 18-year-old Privilege $231
Calgary is now the only place in Canada where you can find these remarkable spirits; their production is small and they are sought after globally. I had the opportunity to taste through the entire range with their importer, including the incredible 50-year-old and 75-year-old versions (which will be available at a few select stores) and they were amazing, still youthful and complex. I splurged on a bottle of the 12-year-old, a sublime spirit that seamlessly melds the ethereal apple notes with a rich, ultra-high-end Cognac-like component. As much as I enjoy great Cognac and Armagnac, I would choose one of these above all else for this style of spirit — they are something very special.
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Geoff last is a longtime Calgary wine merchant, writer and broadcaster and a regular contributor to City Palate Magazine and other publications. He instructs on food and wine at the Cookbook Company Cooks and was recently awarded a fellowship to the Symposium of Professional Wine