The Rioja rocks with big, bold reds
In storied, old world wine regions — such as the Rioja in Spain — change comes slowly and infrequently. But change has arrived and many feel it was well overdue.
For a start, the three key zones — Rioja Alta, Rioja Alavesa and Rioja Baja (formerly called subzones) — will appear with more regularity on labels and Rioja Baja will now be called Rioja Oriental. Wines from these zones must be produced from fruit from the stated zone, but a maximum of 15 per cent can come from other parts of the region.
There is also a new designation called Vinedos Singulares that will focus on single vineyard aspects and can include village and vineyard names (sounds like they have been looking at Burgundy).
Rules have also been modified to include white and rosé wines, which is intended to reflect the increase in both quality and quantity.
To the average consumer these changes probably won’t matter that much. What does matter is that this region offers a bounty of great wines and exceptional value.
Here are some newer arrivals to discover.
IZADI RESERVA RIOJA 2013 -$27
Izadi is new to our market, a modern producer that offers terrific value. This one is produced entirely from Tempranillo from vines with 45-plus years of age matured in both French and American oak (American oak is favoured for aging wines in much of the Rioja) for 16 months. It displays classic red fruits along with some spice, licorice and smoke. The tannins are firm, but fleshy and well-integrated. It would go nicely with most smoked meats.
FINCA DEL MARQUESADO GRAN RESERVA RIOJA 2009 -$28
Here is another exceptional bargain, especially in the top tier gran reserva range, as they typically crest the $50 mark. This winery is part of the Bodegas Valdemar stable, a separate estate producing wines that are mainly Tempranillo, with a small amount of Mazuelo. Aged for 26 months in both French and American oak, it offers a wide gamut of sweet savoury notes that include dried herbs, leather and figs in a smoky cherry core. The tannins are still quite aggressive and, as such, it would be best with lamb or other gamey meats. It will continue to improve for a few more years yet.
FINCA NUEVA CRIANZA 2013 - $23
This one is a nice straightforward Rioja with juicy red fruits and a touch of spice and fresh herbs. It is pure Tempranillo, aged for 12 months in French oak and represents the more modern take on Rioja. It offers great value, an ideal wine for casual fare such as pizza or burgers.
MARQUES DE MURRIETA RESERVA 2011 - $36
This highly regarded producer walks the line between traditional and modern, not always an easy feat to achieve. Their wines retain the old warm charm, but there is a polished, fruit-forward component to their wines. This one is quite perfect right now, the classic punch in a velvet glove with bright red fruits, spice and leather, lovely stuff.
LA RIOJA ALTA VINA ARDANZA RESERVA 2008 $66
La Rioja Alta, along with R. Lopez de Heredia, represent the best of the traditional producers, classic wines that never fail to remind wine lovers why they fell in love with the wines of Rioja in the first place. Blackcurrants, spice, leather and pipe tobacco dominate with firm but ripe tannins, a special occasion wine that would go well with beef or duck breast.
R. LOPEZ DE HEREDIA VINA TONDONIA RESERVA 2004 -$58
Wines from this marquee producer can be difficult to find. Production is relatively low and demand is always high and for good reason. They release the wines when they feel they are ready to drink (the 1995 Gran Reserva for $164 has just been released, for example) and they are remarkable.
Their whites are even rarer and amazingly age-worthy, as well. This one is like a comfortable old leather chair; you sink into it and bask in notes of dusty cherry fruit, spice, leather and dried herbs; something truly special.
If you want to taste the wines of Lopez de Heredia in all their glory, the Deane House is hosting a dinner on April 19 in the beautiful library room.
This event will provide you with an opportunity to taste the great reds and whites from this legendary producer.
They have been paired with exceptional food from the Deane House.
Tickets cost $165 plus 18 per cent gratuity plus GST. You can email events@deanehouse.com or call the Deane House for tickets and more information.
Looking for wine in Alberta? Go to www.liquorconnect.com Geoff last is a longtime Calgary wine merchant, writer and broadcaster and a regular contributor to City Palate Magazine and other publications. He instructs on food and wine at the Cookbook Company Cooks and was recently awarded a fellowship to the Symposium of Professional Wine Writers based in Napa Valley.