Fresh korean fare served up in south calgary
When it came time to open his own restaurant, Joung Rae Kim could have gone in a number of directions. Originally from South Korea, Kim moved to Calgary in 2000 and soon enrolled in SAIT’s culinary program, which landed him a string of jobs in high-end kitchens including Catch and the Oyster Bar, the Rimrock Hotel in Banff, Anju, and the Earl Grey Golf Club. But when Kim noticed an empty restaurant space in a strip mall in Midnapore, he decided to move away from fine dining and focus on the cuisine closest to his heart: authentic Korean food.
Kim is now the proud owner and chef at Han Maru, an unassuming 60-seat restaurant filled with intimate tables and booths.
While Kim had considered starting a contemporary Canadian or modern Korean-fusion restaurant, and certainly has the creative chops to do so, he also wanted to bring traditional, from-scratch Korean fare made with fresh ingredients to the Calgary suburbs to help his neighbours develop an appreciation for the kind of food he grew up with. Kim’s brother Sung Rae Kim also works in the kitchen as chef de cuisine, making Han Maru a true family affair.
Han Maru’s menu is divided into sections, each offering a different aspect of Korean cuisine. First and foremost is the everpopular Korean fried chicken — which has a thinner and crispier exterior than typical Southern fried chicken.
In addition to some more traditional Korean flavours, the boneless chicken topped with grana padano cheese and truffle oil ($28.95 for a full order or $15.95 for a half order) has already become one of Han Maru’s signature dishes. Italian cheese and truffles may not be traditionally Korean, but the creation is such a favourite of Kim’s children that he couldn’t resist putting it on the menu.
Elsewhere on the menu you’ll find deep-fried pork Mandu Tulgim dumplings ($7.95) made with Kim’s mother’s recipe, obligatory bibimbap stone rice bowls ($12.95) and a selection of noodles, stir-fries, and soups.
Since Korean dining is typically a social affair, Kim also offers a selection of shareable hot pots and Korean BBQ dishes. The latter can be cooked in the kitchen or at one of eight tables fitted with burners in the dining room — though Kim warns that those tables fill up quickly and should be booked ahead, especially on weekends.
In the beverage department, in addition to typical beer, wine and spirit selections, Han Maru has a small list of Korean alcoholic drinks, including soju (a clear Korean spirit), makgeolli (milky Korean rice wine) and Korean sake.
While Kim says that about 20 per cent of his customers are originally from Korea and are looking for a taste of home, he knows that a significant number of Han Maru patrons are new to the world of Korean cuisine. He makes sure to chat with everyone to make them comfortable, demonstrating how to mix in various sauces, working the BBQs and explaining the small plates of banchan (Korean side dishes) that come out with the meals.
“A lot of Canadians try the wrong Korean restaurants that use so much MSG and then they think they don’t like Korean food,” he says. “And that hurts my heart. So I want to introduce Calgarians to the traditional aspects of Korean food.”
Han Maru is located at 24, 240 Midpark Way S.E. Reservations can be made at 403-265-1818.
In local industry news, Jamie Harling, who has been executive chef at Deane House since that restaurant opened two years ago, announced that he would be leaving. Harling is taking his considerable talent to the kitchen at Teatro, where he will be senior sous chef until other projects take him elsewhere. Shortly before that, Teatro’s chef de cuisine Dave Bohati announced that he would also be switching jobs — he’s moved on to a position as corporate chef at Murrieta’s, overseeing both the downtown Calgary and Canmore locations.
Which leaves the chef de cuisine position at Teatro open — for the time being, the Teatro Group’s corporate executive chef Matthew Batey will be rolling up his sleeves and cooking in the Teatro kitchen, leading the team through the remainder of the restaurant’s 25th anniversary celebrations. There’s one event left in that schedule: Batey’s Boozy Brunch — featuring a gourmet breakfast and champagne bottle service — will take place on Nov. 18. Email info@ teatro.ca or call 403-290-1012 for more information.
Speaking of anniversaries, another distinguished veteran of the Calgary restaurant scene, Cilantro is also having a milestone birthday this year. The recently renovated restaurant is hosting a 30th anniversary celebration, which will bring together distinguished Cilantro alumni and current staff. Chef Lance Monteiro and his team will prepare a four-course dinner inspired by the restaurant’s rich history, with wine pairings from wine director Brad Royale.
For more information, visit cilantrocalgary.com.