GERMAN TRADITIONS FIND FAVOUR IN FREDERICKSBURG
It may have a reputation for brushland, beer and barbecue, but a visit to Texas Hill Country will shake those notions.
Here, little more than an hour from both San Antonio and Austin, you’ll find lush hills, fine wineries and innovative cuisine in a city that almost never was.
Fredericksburg was founded in 1846 by German immigrants who were meant to settle on another piece of land found to be inhospitable. Baron Ottfried Hans Freiherr von Meusebach, commissioner general for the Society of the Protection of German Immigrants in Texas, accidentally stumbled across this area when heading back to the coast where the new citizens were waiting. He arranged a treaty with the local Comanches and each settler was given a town lot and 10 acres of farmland.
The well-run Pioneer Museum on Main Street explains the fascinating story of the city’s origins through a short video and tour through historical buildings, like the spartan Sunday Houses that ranch families would use on church day. Many of these still exist as family homes in the city.
Fredericksburg and surrounding area is a remarkable pocket of German-ness, from its architecture to food and drink. It boasts a massive new Bavarian-style brewery — Alstadt — which follows strict brewing guidelines set out by the German Purity Law of 1516.
Owned by some of the Scripps family of American publishing fame who live there, the stunning facility has a richly appointed lower cellar, a cosy dining room, community-style dance hall, and outdoor platzl where much merrymaking will likely occur. The tasting room is right beside the brewing operations so you can watch the process while working your way through a flight of alt, kolsch and lager.
While the new brewery is making waves, so, too, is Fredericksburg ’s vast and quickly growing wine business. Dozens of newcomers are popping up alongside veteran wineries which have amassed a dedicated clientele.
Becker Vineyards is one of the stalwarts, having opened in 1992. Nominated by Wine Enthusiast for Best Winery in America Wine Star Award, Becker has a beautiful 308-acre estate planted with lavender and seasonal flowers where many locals spent an afternoon with a picnic lunch and a bottle of award-winning Sauvignon Blanc or Malbec. It’s one of the largest wineries in the region, with a tasting room housed in a reproduction of a late 19th century German stone barn, three tank rooms and a barrel warehouse containing more than 4,500 oak barrels, producing 100,000 cases a year.
Contrast that with nearby Narrow Path Winery, the newest kid on the block. A family operation, Narrow Path has one of the best views of the countryside. With its ultra-modern design and sleek outdoor seating, the Turbevilles hope to attract a clientele eager to try their small batch (under 200 cases a year) varietals of Viognier, Sangiovese, Tempranillo, Mourvedre and others.
While some of the local wineries harvest their own grapes on site, many rely on produce grown in northwest Texas, near Lubbock. Eager to promote and grow the industry, many Fredericksburg restaurants and bars highlight Texas Hill Country wines. One of the best to pair regional wine and cuisine is Cabernet Grill headed by Chef Ross Burtwell. The elegant restaurant was recognized this year by Wine Enthusiast as one of the 100 best wine restaurants in the U.S.
With only 11,370 residents, Fredericksburg boasts a high number of unique restaurants. Otto’s German Bistro is a fresh take on tradition. The menu changes weekly and features fresh seasonal, regional fare. Navajo Grill also features locally sourced food with a focus on southern dishes and sports a romantic outdoor patio area.
The Peach Tree Tea Room is family-owned, serving homemade soups, breads and salads for 39 years.
One of the most unique places to dine is on the quaint Main Street, on the lower level of a contemporary home furnishing and decor store. Stepping down into the Bistro at Vaudeville is like strolling back in time in New York. The black-and-white palette with small tables and a long bar wouldn’t be out of place in an old Vogue magazine. Specialties here include wood-fired pizzas, charcuterie boards, and healthconscious dishes like salmon in miso broth and towering bowls of delectable chicken confit.
One business successfully pairing its German roots with modern taste is Fischer & Wieser’s Das Peach Haus. The two-family business started as a peach jam shop in an old log cabin. It has branched out into producing a wide variety of sauces and herbs marketed locally and nationally. The old cabin still stands and is used for wine events while a new shop next door sells all of the products as well as hosts culinary classes and wine tastings.
After being ensconced in German surroundings, if you need something to remind you that you’re in Texas, you can’t miss a visit to a country music icon: Luckenbach, only 19 kilometres from Fredericksburg.
Made famous by the 1977 Waylon Jennings song, Luckenbach dates to the mid-1800s and originally boasted a school, a cotton gin, a blacksmith shop, and a general store/post office that once boasted of selling everything from the cradle to the grave, including coffins and cowbells. These days, the packed store hawks T-shirts and other souvenirs while a tiny, standing-room-only bar at the rear services the crowds who come to hear the pickers playing daily out back under the big oak trees. A large dance hall across the dusty yard brings in bigger acts, while the grounds hosted the annual Willie Nelson Picnic from 1995 to 1999 and again in 2001.
After days of eating and drinking in Fredericksburg ’s notable establishments, you may need to head out of town to work it all off. Enchanted Rock State Natural Area is up to the challenge but you’ll have to make sure you are. Rising 130 metres from the valley floor, the Summit Trail up the pink granite mountain is an easy but steady uphill climb.
It’s best to do early in the day before the sun gets too strong. Take plenty of water and watch where you go as the back side of the hill is a sheer drop used by rock climbers.
Accommodations in the region are plenty, with 900 guest houses, B&Bs, hotels and country inns to choose from as well as personal estate rentals.
A unique option is the Cottages at Fredericksburg Herb Farm. Only a few blocks from Main Street, it feels like a country farm. Charming, well-appointed cottages that are gleaming and modern ring the property which includes a full-service bistro (try the huge cinnamon buns), a serene spa, a quirky gift shop and numerous herb gardens.
To find other options, the Fredericksburg tourism website lets you input parameters to narrow the choices.
For more information, check out visitfredericksburgtx.com.