FAMILY BOOK ADVENTURE HEADS SOUTH
Following Rusty’s route, the Cowboy Trail delights with fun, food and history
Our epic summer road trip began on a high. After visiting Edson, Jasper and Banff, we bid the Rockies goodbye. Next on our agenda is to drive the Cowboy Trail, all of which is inspired by Dave Kelly’s beloved bedtime tale. I Met an Elk in Edson Once is a quirky, rhyming story that showcases much of Alberta’s glory. Sadly, some of the book’s attractions are not on offer this summer. So, we checked the map and swapped them out for another local stunner.
We begin this leg of our journey touring the Cowboy Trail. Highway 22 — the road’s official name — stretches from Mayerthorpe, northwest of Edmonton, to Lundbreck in southern Alberta. Following Rusty’s route — searching for her missing uncle — we joined the Cowboy Trail just south of Calgary. On Saturdays, Millarville’s Farmers’ Market is a must for stocking up on locally made goodies. Entry is by donation, and there are a host of tempting treats on offer. Grab a bag of Snackington’s sophisticated pretzels and some Stampede Kettle Corn for easy munching in the car. Time your travels right and you’ll land in Black Diamond for lunch. Marv’s Classic Soda Shop, a retro-’50s diner, is our new favourite spot for milkshakes and hand-held fare. House staples include jukeboxes on the table, kitsch decor and a giggle-inducing menu — think peanut butter hamburgers called Goober, Magoo and Elvis. The latter of which is topped with banana slices. Brooklyn, my eight-year-old, opted for a simple hotdog, served in a take-away red convertible.
Next up is Longview for some world-famous beef jerky. The legendary third-generation Longview Jerky Shop has delighted patrons with its smoky cowboy snacks since 1978. Ingredients are locally sourced, and flavours range from classic and sweet and spicy to the weirdly wonderful dill pickle. After stockpiling jerky, drive another 10 minutes south to the Bar U Ranch Historic Site to learn about Alberta’s rich ranching history. Unfortunately, much of the ranch was closed during our visit, however, more activities and attractions have recently opened.
The Percheron horse wagon rides, some historic buildings and traditional ranching demonstrations are now available for visitors to experience. It’s best to check the Bar U Ranch website in advance for up-to-date details on the current offerings.
Head-smashed-in Buffalo Jump is another historic attraction we missed out on this year, as it’s closed for the season. After looking at a map and conducting some quick research, we agreed that Waterton Lakes National Park is an ideal place to search for a missing elk. With its dazzling lakes, soaring peaks and quaint pedestrian-friendly downtown, the tiny Rocky Mountain park is one of the most scenic spots in the province, and well worth the drive. We booked in at the historic Prince of Wales for the sweeping lake and mountain views. The iconic property, perched on a bluff, just a short walk from town, is one of Waterton’s most beloved landmarks. Brooklyn adored taking afternoon tea in the Royal Stewart Dining Room and ending every day of adventure with a charcuterie board in the Windsor Lounge. It’s a tough life that she leads.
We discovered a lot of fun in town as well. Our family highlights include renting a Surrey bike from Pat’s Waterton and riding to Cameron Falls, the double-scoop waffle cones at Welch’s Chocolate shop, fairy garden shopping at My Sisters Room and having a picnic lunch — care of Wieners of Waterton — at the spray park. Another great option is to rent a kayak or paddleboard from Blackiston and Company and explore Emerald Bay. Keep in mind that mornings are the best time for paddling, as the wind tends to pick up later in the day.
After Waterton, we began our trek north to Fort Macleod. The town was founded in 1874 after the North Western Mounted Police (NWMP) arrived to eradicate the illicit whisky trade. We learned much about the area’s dramatic history at The Fort Museum of the NWMP and First Nations Interpretive Centre. Most of the museum’s heritage buildings and Indigenous exhibits are open. Plan to spend about an hour viewing the many artifacts and check the website for the NWMP Musical Ride schedule in advance, as it can vary week to week at present. Watching the Red Coats on horseback is a definite high point. As we were leaving, a museum staff member recommended exploring the town’s historic main street and picking up turnovers at the Homestead Bakery. A deliciously brilliant suggestion. We bought a peach and an apple pastry to share and demolished both before arriving back at the car.
On the final leg of our journey, we will head back north towards Edmonton. I expect great adventures, epic Alberta scenes, and hopefully, we’ll eventually find Rusty’s elusive Uncle Todd.