Calgary Herald

MASALA LOUNGE OFFERS BIG FLAVOURS WITH NEIGHBOURH­OOD HOSPITALIT­Y

Restaurant’s casual pub setting belies the superb Indian dishes on the menu

- ELIZABETH CHORNEY-BOOTH Elizabeth Chorney-booth can be reached at elizabooth@gmail.com. Follow her on Instagram at @elizabooth or sign up for her newsletter at hungrycalg­ary.substack.com.

It's hard not to let the look of a restaurant colour expectatio­ns of what may lurk inside. For example: step through the doors of Masala Lounge and Grill, an Indian restaurant that opened in the Beltline at the top of the year, and you'll find what looks like a standard pub, albeit one with the warming scent of curries wafting from the kitchen. With a formidable wooden bar facing the door, the room is cosy and the staff are friendly and welcoming, but the bones of the restaurant look very much like the former Fionn Maccool's.

But if we don't judge a book by its cover, we shouldn't judge a restaurant by its inherited architectu­ral features. Masala Lounge and Grill's casual setting belies the superb Indian dishes coming out of its kitchen.

If the name sounds familiar to readers from the city's south end, it's not just because “Masala” is an exceedingl­y popular name for Indian restaurant­s. Co-owners

Pradeep Singh, a hospitalit­y profession­al who takes care of the front of house, and chef Mahavir Singh are also behind the Masala Lounge and Grill in Okotoks, which opened about a year and a half ago. That restaurant has been particular­ly popular with Okotoks' British population and the town's municipal council, which has taken to ordering takeout for its meetings.

With that U.K. expat connection in mind, leaning into the new Beltline location's decor makes more sense. The pub setting also offers a comfortabl­e neighbourh­ood feel designed to draw in residents of nearby condo buildings. The Masala team has taken pains to turn its 100seat restaurant into a community joint where locals can pop in for a quick drink and a snack, sit solo at the bar with a meal while chatting with the bartender or hunker down for a full multi-dish Indian feast.

That said, Masala Lounge and Grill is also worth travelling to from other parts of the city. The menu is enormous with almost too much choice, sticking primarily to North Indian fare, reminiscen­t of what the owners have experience­d in India. What sets the restaurant apart from the norm is a commitment to fresh ingredient­s and homemade sauces, and a refusal to compromise on traditiona­l flavours and techniques. There are a lot of Indian restaurant­s to choose from in Calgary — and a lot of very good ones at that — but Pradeep Singh believes there's still room for new approaches.

“What we've learned from our past is what we present on the table,” he says. “If you're looking for food that's like what you'd get in India, this is where you can get that.”

Butter chicken is on the menu ($16.95), but staff will gently encourage customers to move outside of that ubiquitous comfort dish and order something new. There is a wide range of things to try, with choices that can be matched to guests' preferred protein (there's plenty of meat, but the restaurant is also vegan-friendly). Curries include vindaloo, kadai, lababdar, mango and coconut varieties, with most dishes coming in between $15.95 and $18.95 depending on the choice of meat. There are also specialtie­s like sizzling plates of mint tikka chicken ($17.50), several different preparatio­ns of paneer and dal ($14.95-$15.95), kathi rolls ($10.99), biryanis ($14.95-$18.95) and multiple choices for rice and naan. They make their own kulfi for dessert (with the option to adult-ify it with a shot of Bailey's) as well as an aromatic gulab kheer rice pudding.

The bar is, of course, also fully stocked with taps pouring beers that pair with curries. But even though “lounge” comes before “grill” in this restaurant's name, it's the food that shines strongest.

Masala Lounge and Grill is located at 1249 11th Ave. S.W. and can be reached at 825-540-1627 or www.masalaloun­geandgrill.ca. The restaurant is open daily for lunch and dinner.

In other restaurant news, there's a new food festival in town. The inaugural Feast on Fourth runs next week from

April 24 to 28, with special deals at restaurant­s all along 4th Street S.W. Select restaurant­s will be offering specific dishes for $10 each, giving wanderers a chance to sample their way through Mission (and slightly beyond).

Part of what makes this festival fun is the sheer breadth of offerings along what is one of the city's densest stretches of interestin­g restaurant­s. Diners can stop into critically acclaimed spots like Roy's Korean Kitchen for a green onion and seafood pancake or Park by Sidewalk Citizen for fried chicken with housemade spicy mayo, hit The Unicorn or Joyce on 4th for some pub grub, or grab an enormous ice cream tasting flight at Abbey's Creations. Other participat­ing businesses include South Block BBQ, Peasant Cheese, Phil and Sebastian, Vin Room, Pin Bar and several more.

For more informatio­n and a full list of restaurant­s and featured dishes, visit 4streetcal­gary.com/feaston4th

 ?? ?? Masala's array of fragrant and flavourful offerings includes dishes such as methi murg, left, and butter chicken that diners can enjoy in a comfortabl­e pub setting with a neighbourh­ood feel.
Masala's array of fragrant and flavourful offerings includes dishes such as methi murg, left, and butter chicken that diners can enjoy in a comfortabl­e pub setting with a neighbourh­ood feel.
 ?? ??
 ?? PHOTOS: JIM WELLS ?? Masala Lounge and Grill's extensive menu showcases a commitment to fresh ingredient­s and homemade sauces, with a focus on North Indian fare.
PHOTOS: JIM WELLS Masala Lounge and Grill's extensive menu showcases a commitment to fresh ingredient­s and homemade sauces, with a focus on North Indian fare.
 ?? ?? Masala Lounge and Grill is owned by Pradeep Singh, left, who takes care of the front of the house, and chef Mahavir Singh.
Masala Lounge and Grill is owned by Pradeep Singh, left, who takes care of the front of the house, and chef Mahavir Singh.
 ?? ??

Newspapers in English

Newspapers from Canada