Going Tubeless for the Road
How to convert your clinchers to a new system
About 15 years ago, tubeless tires started appearing on mountain bikes as a few manufacturers created some new standards for tires and wheels. Riders began to see the benefits of the system, which then caught on. Some riders liked how tubeless seemed to eliminate pinch flats (no tube, therefore, nothing to pinch). Others like how they could run lower air pressure for better traction. Then, it was just a matter of time before tubeless went to the road. So why go tubeless, roadie? Tubeless tires, by design, have a thicker, heavier construction meaning they can often be more durable in less-than-ideal road conditions. You can also, like the mountain bikers, run lower air pressure without fear of pinch flats. Lower air pressure can mean better grip in wet conditions and in corners, as well as improved ride quality. Some even say that you get better rolling resistance. The flip side to some of the benefits are limited wheel choices (not much in the way of an aero selection) and a more involved installation process. Tubeless tires are a bit more difficult to install due to the stiffer beads and most require a quick blast via an air compressor or CO2 inflator to seat them on their rims.
There are many options out there for those who are “tubeless curious.” First, you could get a tubeless wheel, one that doesn’t have spoke holes, and a tubeless tire. Your second option is to convert your existing clincher wheelset using a tubeless conversion kit. A conversion kit will come with three key items – rim tape (to seal off the spoke holes), a tubeless valve and a liquid sealant. Of course, you’ll also need a tubeless or tube-ready tire. Some wheels will take to a conversion much better than others. Different designs and inner rim surfaces will determine the success.
Start your conversion by applying the tape to the rim to seal the spoke holes. A smooth, clean surface is imperative. Next, you install the stem by cutting a hole in the tape carefully at the valve hole and pushing the valve through. Tighten the nut on the outside of the valve. If you have a directional tire, get it on the rim with tread facing the right way. Next, “pop” the bead, a process which can sometimes be a challenge. Most of the time, your standard floor pump will not work. Instead, you’ll need a quick shot of air to “blast” the bead onto the rim. An air compressor or CO2 is handy here.
Add sealant via a removable valve core. You can also leave a few inches of bead open to pour in sealant before popping the tire on with air. Always distribute the sealant after pressurizing the tire by rotating the wheel in your hands and flipping it side to side. Finally, check the tire sidewalls and the rim to make sure the beads are seated properly. If you see any major bumps, you’ll have to reset the tire. Once the tires are seated well, you’re ready to ride.