Riding Gold in the Netherlands
The bergs, and beer, of the Dutch Alps are a must for any cycling fan
The bergs, and beer, of the Dutch Alps are a must for any cycling fan
Sometimes it’s hard to admit that you got things a little wrong. I have to bow with embarrassment and openly raise my hand to having done just that with the Limburg region of the Netherlands. I was so very wrong. Sorry.
The Netherlands, or Holland as so many of us often refer to it with a minor geographical misjudgment (Holland is a region of the Netherlands), is a place that many cyclists imagine as pan-flat, largely reclaimed from the sea. The country also conjures up images of straight, windswept roads, all lined with dykes, windmills, and heavily decorated with tulips and daffodils. Ah, lovely. It could stack up to being potentially very boring when it comes to riding a bike.
And yes, those elements are there. Luckily, there is also a whole different side to the place: the comparatively mountainous region of Limburg, a borderland area with Belgium with its own deep heritage and identity. The hills of Limburg – and there are loads of them – tend to be referred to as bergs, which we all know of from the many chapters of pro cycling history that have been carved out of their steep slopes. A berg never seems to end, or at least not until the next one pops up, which happens with heart-pumping frequency.
Flat and boring this region is certainly not. It’s a very rolling, vibrant place with a lot of superb scenery and some of the best road riding in the north of continental Europe. Think of Limburg as the Dutch Alps.
The Amstel Gold Race and its accompanying sportive event (which acts as a prelude to the main race) had been the aim of my visit here. The race is one of the newer of the classics on the block, with April 16 marking its 52nd edition. With a mid-april staging, it’s the first of the Ardennes Classics, following Cobbled Classic closer, Paris-roubaix. Amstel Gold has a reputation as one of the toughest, hardest Classics to win. It’s something that I never quite understood, until I got to ride the maze of roads that make up the complex and testing route.
Springtime in northern Europe can often be harsh and grim, which is just what makes the Spring Classics as tough and legendary as they are. In any given race, you can expect to experience all four seasons in one day, often even within an hour. Heavy winds and thrashing rain can turn to snow and then magically back to sunshine within the space of an energy bar’s consumption. On my weekend, it was a dashingly summer-like 23 C, which is just perfect for riding the rapid procession of intense climbs. True to form, the daffodils were in full bloom, contrasting boldly with the greens and browns of the après-winter fields. The leaves were just returning to the trees. The skies were a breezy blue, all fluffed to perfection with clouds – positively idyllic, and quite unexpected and welcomed. The bordering Belgian region blends almost seamlessly into Limburg, doubling your potential rides. The town of Maastricht is a great base for classic cycling pilgrimages with as many historic race routes as you wish. These are great to check out during race time, but even better to ride during the summer when you can bare legs and keep your rear dry – usually. There are so many of these twisted and hilly roads, you could easily clock 1,500 m in elevation without travelling more than 30 km from Maastricht, which is also where the Amstel Gold Race starts.
The grey and meandering maze of roads is exactly what makes the Amstel Gold Race so tough. The routes are slender, curvaceous with plenty of road furniture. Many of the roads are also exposed in places, meaning that the winds that have sculpted the jawbones of so many Dutch champions will lash at you in a free-for-all manner
at their mercy. Looking at the route map for the race and the sportive is similar to looking at a bike courier’s Strava log for the year. It’s an absolute spaghetti-like mesh of ins, outs and around-abouts – often taking in the same climbs and sectors in opposite directions within less than half an hour or so.
A ride or two in this region will make you really feel as if you’ve conquered a Classic.
Details
Getting there Amsterdam is the nearest international gateway. If you intend to make a week or more of things and take in the other Ardennes Classics, Brussels is also a good option. Neither city is too far away.
Trains are a great way of travelling around this part of Europe. All of the Classic races and routes are accessible by combining rails and bikes. A rental car, however, is an even better option and adds a lot of flexibility, especially when the weather gets unfriendly and time is short. Around town The historic and small city of Maastricht is where the Amstel Gold Race starts, and where many pro teams base themselves for much of the Ardennes Classics period. It’s a fascinating and very scenic place. If you are looking for something even more special, head to the town of Valkenberg, which is at the foot of the often-decisive Cauberg climb. When to visit Race weekend in April is good if you want to combine spectating and sportive riding. The best weather comes later and last until October.
For details on the sportive and race check out amstel.nl. Riding tips No matter what time of year you chose to visit, you do need to be prepared for almost every weather eventuality. Warm and waterproof gear is always a wise thing to stuff in the bottom of your bag.
There are many places online (such as Strava) from where you can download .gps tracks for the race route. I recommend you do so, as there are so many twists and turns that a route can be hard to follow.