RENEW, REBUILD, REJUVENATE

It’s time to add the anti-aging powerhouse vitamin C to your skin- care regimen.

Fight fatigued skin and fine lines with vitamin C

VITAMIN C ISN’T AN OBSCURE INGREDIENT.

In fact, most of us are familiar with it thanks to our daily intake of fruit and vegetables. But skin-care researchers continue to uncover and understand the role that vitamin C has in the prevention of aging. The good news? If you’re already eating blueberries and acai regularly, you’re a step ahead. But, in terms of skin care, topical vitamin C is significantly more effective than consuming it, so it’s a good idea to add it to your skin-care routine, too, to protect against free-radical damage, increase microcirculation and build collagen. Here’s what you need to know.

What is vitamin C? Vitamin C, also known as ascorbic acid, is one of the most potent antioxidants on the market. It’s found naturally in citrus fruit and berries, and vegetables such as red peppers and kale. Vitamin C can be derived from those natural ingredients, but skincare scientists often tweak or create formulas in a lab to ensure a more stable product. The human body is not able to make vitamin C or store it in large amounts, but it’s essential for maintaining skin health, which is why you should add it to your routine, stat.

What does it do to the skin? Many people are familiar with the notion that vitamin C has skin-brightening properties, but vitamin C’s main function is to build collagen. “The structure of the epidermis is made out of collagen,” says Jennifer Hirsch, beauty botanist for The Body Shop, “and vitamin C regulates collagen.”

Collagen (think of it as the springs in a mattress) production slows down in our mid-20s, but vitamin C encourages its continued creation. The ingredient also protects our skin from the effects of free radicals (environmental aggressors responsible for 80 percent of the skin’s aging). “It increases the microcirculation in the skin,” says Regine Berthelot, director of spa education at Caudalie, “helping eliminate toxins and impurities” often caused by sun exposure, external stress and environmental pollution.

Stability is key Unfortunately, the most potent form of vitamin C is also the least stable. Brands have been perfecting their formulas to ensure that vitamin C is stable and, therefore, active. Vitamin C easily degrades over time—more swiftly when exposed to heat and light— so freshness is key. “What happens is that a couple of weeks after you open the bottle, the product becomes orange or brown; it becomes oxidized,” says Berthelot. “Knowing that the product is stabilized is very important to be able to make sure it keeps its potency.” Unstable vitamin C won’t damage your skin, but it also won’t work and can cause photosensitivity (which is a reaction to UV rays from sunlight and other light sources and in extreme cases can lead to rashes).

Find your formula When it comes to picking a product with vitamin C, Hirsch recommends opting for a formula that will stay on your skin, instead of being rinsed off. “You’re going to get the maximum benefit from something you leave on your skin for a period of time,” says Hirsch. Berthelot says products with 15 percent vitamin C work perfectly for the skin because they’re strong enough to be active. More than 25 percent isn’t advised, as your skin can’t absorb more than that at once. Alternatively, look for formulas that aren’t too acidic, with a ph level of three to four.