Canadian Trails
Nanaimo, B.C.
Situated due west across the Georgia Strait from Vancouver, the port city of Nanaimo is endowed with formidable natural beauty and a rich and fascinating history. The abundance of world class trails lead to subtropical rainforests, arbutus trees, alpine valleys, jutting mountains, glacier-hewn foothills and ancient, pristine rivers and lakes. A thriving community of 90,000, Nanaimo is smack dab in the middle of the Island’s action. Tofino, Victoria, Vancouver, and Strathcona Park (B.C.’s oldest and arguably most spectacular provincial park) are all well within striking distance. The entire region oozes with adventure, but you needn’t travel very far from the ferry terminal to find the most exquisite trails – some are even within city limits.
Newcastle Island Marine Provincial Park
The Nanaimo area is the traditional unceded territory of the Snuneymuxw First Nation (pronounced Snuh-NAY-mow). Foremost among the protected parklands that fall under the Snuneymuxw’s diligent stewardship is Newcastle Island. Rugged cliffs covered in towering, old-growth fir trees loom over the ferry as it rounds the corner into Departure Bay. These ancient trees are perched on Newcastle Island, inaccessible except by another ferry, and yet a city has grown right across from them. Thanks to recent years of good-faith collaboration between the Snuneymuxw people, the city, and the province, Newcastle Island (or Saysutshun) is a litt le piece of heaven on earth.
To get to this “Island off an Island,” one must take another ferry. The south Nanaimo harbour is littered with sailboats and yachts from around the world, and as you weave through these colourful vessels you can see the approaching grassy meadows of Newcastle Island’s south-facing side. Dotted with massive gary oak and broad-leaf maple trees and surrounded by sandstone tidal pools, it becomes apparent why wealthy Vancouverites and Victorians used to vacation here before World War II and why the Snuneymuxw consider it sacred. A breathtaking 10 km perimeter trail and another dozen or so unique inland trails mean one could easily spend an entire week exploring this geologically and ecologically diverse island. There are no paved roads or vehicles, campsites and facilities are well maintained, and the atmosphere is friendly.
An old, wooden building houses a modest cafeteria and camping supplies shop. Bicycle and kayak rentals are available throughout the summer, and ferry service runs from early March to the end of November (though groups of 40 or more can sometimes be accommodated during the winter, depending on weather conditions). With service every 30 minutes between the end of May and early September, island-hopping for a trail adventure couldn’t be easier.
Westwood Lake and Morrell Nature Sanctuary
Nanaimo is wedged between Mount Benson to the west and the Georgia Strait to the east. Due to these natural constraints, development sprawls to the north and south, whereas the city’s entire west f lank is exposed to the rugged wilds of Vancouver Island.
Westwood Lake Park is nearest the centre of the city, and the most popular conduit into the trails. Nestled in the mountain, this shimmering freshwater lake might just host the world’s most perfect trail running circuit. At 6k per lap, this well-groomed trail around the lake is a regional staple used by almost 1,000 people a day, and perfect for speedwork. Good facilities and a large parking lot are often bustling with runners, walkers,
swimmers and cyclists. All of the local running clubs meet at Westwood Lake for weekly trail runs, including the Runners of Compassion – Nanaimo Chapter, the Bastion Run Club, Wild Women Trail Running, and the Westwood Running Club.
For many local trail runners, going to Westwood is like going to church. Proud arbutus trees lend their evergreen leaves to the rustling winds all year round. Bald eagles and beavers hunt for trout in the clear waters. Flowering dogwood trees and six different species of edible berries add their f lavours and colours to the forest. For those who desire challenging singletrack, there are 100 kilometres or more of singletrack trails forming a vast playground for trail users, all within a 20-km radius of the main Westwood Lake parking lot. These trails connect to other parks and trails.
Some even connect to the fabled Morrell Nature Sanctuary. Gifted to the community by a local businessman, some of Nanaimo’s most beautiful and charismatic trails are hidden within this wildlife refuge. Every year the Vancouver Island Trail Running Series runs through Morrell and Westwood Lake, using almost exclusively technical singletrack trails for both the 10k short course and the 17k long course. In Morrell, the trails are rooty and rocky, yet runnable. Surrounded by densely-packed sword ferns, salal and salmonberries, the loamy ground and f lowing terrain make for a fine afternoon scamper through the woods. Off-leash dogs are not permitted, nor are mountain bikes, so the likelihood of seeing wildlife, such as bears, cougars, owls, hawks and beavers is much greater.
Morrell Lake is home to countless species of bird, reptile, and amphibian. The lakeside trail is Ground Zero for the largest tree in the area, the top of which is hardly visible while standing underneath. Dozens of educational placards describe various f lora and fauna throughout the park, adding even more richness to the humbling experience of the curious trail runner. Trails are well marked with names like Tranquility and Rocky Knoll, and maps accompany most of the educational placards. Nature daycamps are offered to children during the summer, but many in the know keep their inner child alive in these forests year-round.
Mount Benson
Perhaps the most prominent feature of the Nanaimo region is the mountain that forms its backdrop. Mount Benson was originally called by First Nations “Wakesiah,” which roughly translated means “nearby,” and indeed, the 1,000-metre-high mountain is ever-present. Just when you think you’ve quenched your wanderlust, there is Benson looming in the background, taunting trail runners with promises of extremely fun and chaotic singletrack, to be rewarded upon summitting with the most breathtaking views imaginable. Located northwest of Westwood Lake, it is a moderate 18 km from parking lot to summit and back. A shorter, 8-km round-trip summit from Witchcraft Lake is the more direct route to the top, but these aforementioned parks are only a small portion of the city’s peripheral trail network. Mount Benson has several foothills, each offering stunning vantage points of its own. These foothills, Westwood Lake, Morrell, Witchcraft and several other lakes and parks form a super system of trail-running venues. It is endlessly satisfying to traverse the entire 20 km length of the city entirely by trail, all via epic singletrack. New trails are being added and sanctioned on an ongoing basis, thanks to the efforts of the growing community of trail users.
Shelby Drope is a trail-running coach in his hometown of Nanaimo, B.C.