DOPPIO ZERO

DINE and Destinations - - SARA SAYS -

Ar­meni Domenico and son Natale Domenico came pre­heralded as the pro­pri­etors of the cel­e­brated Mon­treal restau­rant Lucca. Now, in part­ner­ship with Francesco Car­di­nale, they have opened Doppio Zero (Dou­ble 00—li­cense for the most highly re­fined Ital­ian flour). In the months since it opened, it has gained a fan­tas­tic fol­low­ing. Au­then­tic­ity is key, and they try to get all their in­gre­di­ents across the board from Cal­abria.

The room it­self is un­pre­ten­tious and ca­sual, a long bar seats lo­cal res­i­dents en­joy­ing thin crunchy piz­zas from the em­bers of the wood-burn­ing oven. The dough— whole wheat or gluten free—has rested and fer­mented for 36 hours to its op­ti­mum sweet­ness. The drink du jour is a Si­cil­ian Cae­sar cock­tail, plush with olives and fin­ished with Ital­ian sausage and Parme­san on the rim.

Wooden communal ta­bles add a warm rus­tic am­bi­ence. We come for the food be­cause we’ve learned we can’t eat dé­cor. The chef has his fin­ger on the pulse of the sea­sons. In sum­mer, light, refreshing bur­rata on or­ange Carpac­cio is firm with a creamy cen­tre and a cit­ric kiss. In this “good eat­ing neigh­bour­hood” we come for the hid­den gems on the menu. Try Pan­zanella Salad, a chopped salad of tomato, cu­cum­ber and crusty crou­tons driz­zled with a light an­chovy dress­ing and topped with thick slices of seared tuna. And to share, a whole grilled Spigola, a white firm-fleshed fish with just a driz­zle of olive, lemon and herbs, brings out its oceanic best. This is a restau­rant with a pedi­gree that serves clas­sic dishes with a cre­ative twist. Open for break­fast, lunch and din­ner.

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