Edmonton Journal

Hydroseedi­ng vs. sod: which one works best?

Both have their pros and cons; choice comes down to cost, labour

- GERALD FILIPSKI Gerald Filipski is a member of th e Gard en Writers Associatio­n of Am erica. E- mail your qu es tions to filipski@shaw.ca. To read previous columns , go to edmontonjo­urnal.com/ filipski

Q: As a newish but eager gardener, I need your help.

In my front yard, I had a very large spruce tree removed (and the stump ground).

The front yard is large (by my estimation, it is about 1,400 square feet), and the half of the lawn where the tree used to be is in especially poor condition. The soil is extremely compacted to the point where (manual) aeration is impossible, and where removing dandelions by the root is nearly impossible.

I want to replace the lawn entirely. I have read about hydroseedi­ng, which seems preferable to sodding, especially in terms of cost. Is this true?

I want to use low-maintenanc­e, drought-tolerant grass seed that requires minimal fertilizat­ion.

What’s your opinion about hydroseedi­ng compared to sod?

A: Hydroseedi­ng is a technique that involves mixing water, seed, fertilizer, wood fibre mulch and an organic tackifier (an organic glue) to bind the mix.

This mixture is then applied through a sprayer.

The soil is prepared in the same way that you would for sodding or seeding a lawn the old-fashioned way.

Consider the following factors when choosing between hydroseedi­ng and sodding.

Hydroseedi­ng eliminates or reduces hand-seeding issues, such as the wind or rain moving the seed. The tackifier helps to keep the seed in good contact with the soil.

In terms of expense, hydroseedi­ng wins out over sodding at one-third the cost.

With sodding you are paying for an establishe­d turf and one that will give you an instant lawn.

The sod farm has done all the work for you in terms of growing the grass.

It has invested time and money into water, fertilizer, soil preparatio­n, harvesting and so on.

With hydroseedi­ng, the root system of the lawn grows on-site, whereas with sodding the turf is cut and the roots exposed to disease.

While sod is an establishe­d plant it still needs to be treated as you would a new lawn because the roots have been cut back.

With hydroseedi­ng, it is growing in place and is not disturbed.

With hydroseedi­ng, you can customize the seed you are applying. You can opt for a mix that is shade tolerant or more eco-friendly. With sod you are basically stuck with the type of grass seed your supplier has chosen to grow. Hydroseedi­ng tends to make your lawn more susceptibl­e to weed seeds, which can find their way onto the seeded area after applicatio­n of the mixture.

The same holds true when broadcast seeding a lawn. Since you should not be walking on the new lawn until approximat­ely six to eight weeks after seeding, those weeds can easily take root and establish themselves in your nice, new lawn. You need a lot more water to establish a hydroseede­d lawn. If the weather is hot and dry after applicatio­n, you may be watering a couple of times a day for six to eight weeks. Sod is more forgiving, since you are not dealing with new seedlings that are prone to drying out.

In my humble opinion, if cost is not an issue sod is your answer. I like the fact that the lawn is in and weed free with sodding.

However, if you need to save money and can manage the extra work involved, hydroseedi­ng is a very good alternativ­e.

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