Delicious Lambrusco di Sorbara was Pavarotti’s favourite
A red sparkling wine from Italy’s region of Emilia-Romagna (specifically the Emilia part), Lambrusco is typically fruity with good acidity, sometimes savoury and tannic and generally, relatively dry. Lambrusco may be misunderstood because it is not just one grape variety or wine. It is a group of grapes and each has typical characteristics, as do their respective resulting wines.
Traditionally, lambrusco was made using the same traditional method as Champagne, where the fermentation to create the bubbles was done individually in each bottle. Over the past decade, lambrusco appears to have experienced a renaissance and the differences in the respective grape varieties and wine styles are being recognized and appreciated.
The Lambruscos are some of Italy’s oldest grape varieties and may be among the first to be domesticated from wild vines. While there are many different lambrusco grapes, the main ones are Lambrusco di Sorbara, Lambrusco Salamino and Lambrusco Grasparossa.
Lambrusco di Sorbara is the lightest in colour of the lambruscos (it may appear to be a rosé, but it is a red wine) as the grape tends to have relatively thin skins with very little pigment. When well made, the wines tend to be fragrant and floral, fresh and fruity, with bright acidity, finishing relatively dry. A benchmark may be the delicious Paltrinieri ‘Leclisse’ Lambrusco di Sorbara (CSPC: 784353; $$30). Apparently, Lambrusco di Sorbara was the favourite wine of the late Luciano Pavarotti.
Lambrusco Salamino tends to result in wines that are ruby-purple in colour, fruity and grapey, effusive, savoury with good body, bright juicy acidity and finishing dry. Medici Ermete’s ‘Concerto’ Lambrusco Salamino (CSPC: 741412; $24) may be the flagbearer for this variety.
Lambrusco Grasparossa gives wines that are dark with a big, fleshy body, wild red and black fruit, firm but fruit-laden tannins, dry, savoury and bright. Cleto Chiarli makes a very good Vigneto Cialdini (CSPC: 770314).
What do I suggest this Valentine’s Day? Go down to Bar Bricco, order lambrusco, try the different styles and drink them with the bar’s assorted salami and cheese, fried cotechino, ricotta, agnolotti, rye and speck crostini and carne cruda. The setting, the food and the feel of Daniel Costa’s Bar Bricco make this Italian wine bar the best place in town to experience lambrusco. It’s also a great place to hang out with your Valentine.