FOOD NOTES
City seems to be exploding with exciting new culinary options just as the weather warms
It’s an exciting time for foodies in our city
I so much as turn my back for a couple of weeks of holidays and the city explodes with a flurry of food-focused events and debuts by purveyors of delicious.
Firstly, after years in the womb, Ben Staley’s new baby has finally arrived on Jasper Avenue.
The innovative chef, who opened North 53 three years ago with a concept grounded in hyper-local, has been trying to launch his own restaurant virtually ever since. Nailing down a suitable space proved challenging, but now, the doors of the 30-seat Alta are wide open.
Its sister business — a second restaurant named the Alder Room, which shares kitchen space and is located right next door — is poised to launch in April.
“It’s been a long time coming, it feels strange,” says Staley, 25. “With all the delays, it felt like it was never going to end. Now we get to run a restaurant, which is fun and exciting and terrifying.”
Located at 10328 Jasper Ave., Alta is devoted to local and regional foods, which is not exactly a new concept. But a number of novelties set Alta apart. All the food in the restaurant — which is focused on small plates, good wine and clever cocktails — is served at room temperature or cold (the hot stuff will be served next door in the Alder Room, where the main kitchen is located). Alta is a lean machine, with chefs and cooks acting as servers when they’re not preparing dishes. There is a no-tipping policy.
“We wanted to create an environment in which we could treat our staff well,” says Staley of his wage system. “We pay people a living wage, and full benefits, and three weeks paid vacation.”
The 11-item menu is “small, precise and thoughtful.” It’s built around fresh sourdough bread baked daily, served with mainly vegetarian nibbles, including pickled and fermented items, plus a few house-cured meats. Dessert beckons with a rice pudding, and a rich tart crafted from black malt, beeswax and brown butter ganache tucked into a pressed pumpkin seed crust.
Alta is open from 11 a.m. to 1 a.m. Tuesday through Saturday. Sugared and Spiced, the homedelivery cake maker, will open its new, bricks-and-mortar shop this spring in the heart of Old Strathcona. It’s in a heritage space with a lot of character (not to mention good neighbours — the owners of Have Mercy and El Cortez plan another restaurant across the lane). Co-owners Amy and Jeff Nachtigall, who raised significant cash in a crowdfunding campaign, have been planning the new spot for a bit.
Due to open this spring, Sugared and Spiced Baked Goods officially fronts at 10330 Whyte Ave. But the access and storefront are actually located on the north side of the building, in the alley, with a view of the Old Strathcona Farmers Market. Sugar addicts can be doubly ecstatic as another sweet-focused business has also dawned in Edmonton. Moonshine Doughnuts, a popular staple at local farmers markets, has created Doughnut Party in Holland Plaza (10938 119 St.), right beside Duchess Provisions. Owned by Matthew Garrett and Simon Underwood, Doughnut Party was inspired by a trip to Tokyo, where brightlycoloured sweets are the trend.
The partners will expand offerings in the new shop, introducing deep-fried doughnuts in addition to the popular baked, vegan brand that began life at the 124 Grand Market five years ago. Watch for cool flavours such as cookie crumble, lemon, ginger, birthday cake and winterberry Prosecco. The shop also sells coffee and tea. London or East Coast style of fish and chippies, also sells fresh seafood. Celiacs will be pleased to hear there is not only a glutenfree batter available, but glutenfree fries cooked in a separate gluten-free fryer.
“We also do a more modern pan-seared cod, with no batter, and finished with lemon and butter,” says Jesse Morrison Gauthier, co-owner and executive chef for both The Common and Grandin Fish and chips. “We have lots of interesting sides, baby potatoes, steamed asparagus, and Bubble and Squeak.”
It’s open Monday to Saturday from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Downtown Dining Week launches March 10 to 19, featuring a few new restaurants and a slight reduction in price. The full-on executive dinner, available at select restaurants, is now $45, down from $48. As in the past, a two-course lunch is offered for the perfectly reasonable sum of $15, and three-course dinners are $28.
Make reservations because seats in the 32 restaurants participating fill up quickly during the special week. Newcomers include Atlas Steak and Fish (located at 10224 104 Ave. and featuring the talented chef Shelley Robinson at the helm) and chef Nathin Bye’s new joint, the Crash Lobby and Bar (10266 103 St).
It’s been a long time coming, it feels strange … Now we get to run a restaurant, which is fun and exciting and terrifying.