FEAST OUT EAST
Take a trip to Newfoundland for scenery, history, wildlife — and food
On a recent visit to Newfoundland, I never got a taste of fish ‘n’ brewis, that traditional dish made of salt cod, hard bread and crispy pork fat. Seal flipper pie was not on any menu I perused, and as for Jiggs’ Dinner, the Newfoundland take on corned beef and cabbage, well that’s still on my “to taste” list. Yet despite my lack of authentic culinary experiences, I ate well on The Rock, very well even, beginning with a plethora of cod dishes including cod tongues, cod sounds, cod cheeks and the most delectable version of fish and chips made with — you guessed it, cod. I never got to kiss a cod in Newfoundland, but I fell in love with it nonetheless.
Canada’s culinary scene has grown immeasurably in the past two decades, and we can now eat excellent food from coast to coast. On the tip of the west coast, you can enjoy tacos and cod cheeks in Tofino, but as I recently discovered on the tip of the east coast in Newfoundland, you can eat the very same thing, as well as moose, Arctic hare, seal, partridge and the most pristine fresh seafood.
The aforementioned classics of Newfoundland cuisine, along with that throat-blistering rum known as screech, may be what the guidebooks suggest you sample when visiting The Rock. Yet food lovers will also be spoiled in Newfoundland, or more specifically St. John’s, as the dining scene is full of surprises. After a five-day visit to Newfoundland and Labrador’s capital on a quest to check out their increasingly buzz-worthy restaurant scene, I left yearning for more. Sure you can go to Newfoundland to admire the beautiful scenery, watch whales and see puffins. But on your next trip to the province, I’d add eating to the itinerary.
The restaurant where I enjoyed my most magnificent meal was Raymonds, the establishment responsible for launching Newfoundland’s growing reputation as a culinary destination. Opened in 2010, Raymonds is a collaboration between two born-and-bred Newfoundlanders: executive chef Jeremy Charles and restaurant manager and sommelier Jeremy Bonia, often known as “the Jeremys.” The result of their collaboration is a world-class, fine-dining establishment where local ingredients are given the star treatment by the affable Charles, easily one of Canada’s most talented and creative chefs. With Bonia overseeing the dining room, sharpening the experience with the addition of smartly chosen wines (many Canadian) and stellar service, this team has won countless accolades, making a night at Raymonds a destination for many national and international gourmets.
Can one restaurant put a city on the foodie map? Probably not, yet in St. John’s there’s another local boy drawing in the masses: Todd Perrin, chef-owner of Mallard Cottage. Located in the hamlet of Quidi Vidi, a short drive from downtown St. John’s, Mallard Cottage is an 18th-century cottage that happens to be one of the oldest residential structures in the province.
Like Charles, Perrin favours local ingredients, with an emphasis on fish and game meats. Yet he also likes to reinvent traditional dishes, putting his spin on classics like seal liver pâté, salt cod napes, smoked scallop gratin, corn-fried cod cheeks and seafood stew.
Charles, Bonia and Perrin have worked tirelessly, criss-crossing Canada to make their hometown of St. John’s one of Canada’s culinary hot spots, and their cuisine is an ode to the ingredients of Newfoundland’s terroir.
Foraged wild edibles include lichen and moss, morels and chanterelle mushrooms, cloudberries, partridge berries and more. Then there’s the seafood: scallops, whelks, sea urchin, lobster and surf clams, as well as the fish, chief among them, the mighty cod.
Another draw to Newfoundland restaurants is that they can sell wild game meats on their menus, and it is the only province in Canada where this is the case. So you’ll find dishes made with local moose, Arctic hare and game birds like partridge and grouse.
Prices run high at Raymonds and a bit less so at Mallard Cottage, but there are less expensive options too, such as the Raymonds group’s second restaurant, The Merchant Tavern, where the food and ambience are laid back, with prices to match.
For a taste of something equally delicious but completely different, the new Adelaide Oyster House, again on Water Street is a must. Filled with primarily 20- and 30-something locals, this hipsterheavy eatery features plates of fresh oysters, tacos, ceviche, fried chicken and other tapas-style favourites.
For those who want to go even more casual, a heaping plate of fish and chips is always a treat. In town, Duke of Duckworth is a popular spot for fish and chips with a pint of Guinness. But I prefer to head out of town to Chafe’s Landing in Petty Harbour, one of the oldest European settlements in North America. Located steps from the ocean in this historic fishing village, Chafe’s serves fresh lobster, clams, squid, crab, mussels and scallops.
As for the cod, with the Grand Banks fishing grounds just a few miles beyond the coastline of this picture-perfect fishing village, it would be hard to find any fresher. Dig in!
Here are a few must-tries for great food in and around St. John’s:
Raymonds: 95 Water St., St. John’s, raymondsrestaurant.com
The top fine dining spot in St. John’s, Raymonds is posh yet unpretentious. If you’re up for something extra special, go for the tasting menu with wine pairings. Chef Jeremy Charles is both a hunter and a fisherman, and his choice of ingredients is impeccable and he sure knows what to do with them. A recent meal began with seal, whelks and dried and fried cod sounds. Then came moose tartare, cod fillet, Arctic hare and partridge. Service is superb and the wine pairings are inspired. Though prices are steep, (about $100-$135 per person without wine), dinner at Raymonds is once-in-a-lifetime experience.
Mallard Cottage: 8 Barrows Rd., St. John’s, mallardcottage.ca
A true Newfoundland experience, a meal at Mallard Cottage transports you to a place both calm (in the older part of the house) and bustling (in the larger newer space) where copious plates of superb food are delivered by some of the friendliest wait staff you’ll ever encounter, or the charismatic chef-owner Todd Perrin himself. Weekend brunch is not to be missed. Everything from the cocktails to the bangers and mash, bread pudding French toast are excellent and the sweet table is divine.
The Merchant Tavern: 291 Water St., St. John’s, themerchanttavern.ca A modern brasserie of sorts with plenty of bar seating and open-kitchen cooking action to enjoy. The Merchant Tavern is Jeremy Charles in a more casual style, resulting in dishes like moose chili, curried mussels, scallop ceviche and seared cod fillet with roasted Brussels sprouts. Be sure to finish off with a slice of vinegar pie with tea ice cream. Good selection of Canadian draft beers and lagers.
Adelaide Oyster House:
334 Water St., St. John’s, 709-722-7222 This oyster bar is the place to be with the most amazing food and cocktails. The crispy fish tacos, beef lettuce wraps, oyster banh mi sandwich and spicy Korean-style chicken wings are crazy-delicious. It’s a bit loud, but lively and amazingly good.
Chafe’s Landing: 11 Main Rd, Petty Harbour, chafeslanding.com The restaurant is pretty bare bones but the setting, in the fishing village at Petty Harbour, can’t be beat. Start off with a plate of tender, fried cod tongues or squid, and follow up with the most delectable, crunchy-on-theoutside/creamy-on-the-inside fish & chips. Up for something different? Try the moose melt.
Rocket Bakery and Fresh Food:
272 Water St., St. John’s, rocketfood.ca For a casual breakfast or afternoon pick-me-up, this retro style café can’t be beat. The third-wave coffee from Phil & Sebastien is great and the cinnamon buns, tarts, croissants and old-school cakes are good fun. Pick up a package of their delicious spice cookies to go. WHERE FOOD-LOVERS SHOP: Home on Water Street:
156 Water St., St. John’s, homeonwaterst.com
This beautiful kitchenware shop is very swanky and sells just about everything a gourmet’s heart could desire. Prices are fair and their selection of knives and All-Clad pots is impressive. WHERE TO STAY:
Blue on Water: 319 Water St.,
St. John’s, blueonwater.com Located above the Blue on Water bar and restaurant, this discreet boutique hotel is situated near all of St. John’s top restaurants. The queen- and king-sized rooms are spacious and attractive, and prices are reasonable considering the quality of the furnishings and the great location. Rooms start at $149 a night.
Mallard Cottage Inn: 8 Barrows Rd., St. John’s, mallardcottage.ca
As of June 1, Mallard Cottage will be opening up a new inn next to the restaurant. Rooms are $250 a night including continental breakfast (tax and fees extra).