Pull landscaping mulches away from trees to water properly
Q Late last summer I had my front yard landscaped. Apart from a new lawn, two new groupings of trees and shrubs were planted. The landscaper then put down landscape fabric and about four inches of small rocks of various sizes. I have been watering these trees and shrubs by letting water trickle out of a hose and into the rocks, but I have no idea how much water is actually getting through to the root systems. I do know that it doesn’t take long before I see some run-off. I would normally use a root feeder for this type of job, and I’m tempted to start doing that, even if it tears up the landscape fabric.
A I can appreciate your dilemma. First, let me say that I don’t understand why landscapers choose to apply rock mulches to the depth you mention — four inches (or 10 centimetres) of mulch is just overkill. If the rationale is to prevent weeds, that is supposed to be the purpose of the landscape fabric. In my humble opinion, that amount of rock just collects more dust and dirt, and gives the weeds a better chance to take root. Approximately five centimetres of mulch is usually enough in most situations.
However, I’ll get down from my soapbox now and answer your question. If it were me, I would remove the mulch around the base of the trees and shrubs so that I could see how the water is being delivered to the roots. I would also form a well with the soil around the base of the tree, creating a spot to contain the water and allowing it to penetrate more deeply to the roots.
I never plant a tree or shrub without making a well with soil around the plant. This is especially important when the plant is young and getting established. I don’t think you need to resort to a root feeder, but that would certainly deliver the water to the roots. I like to use the ‘well’ system because I can then see how much water I have actually delivered to the root system. Root feeders are better used with larger trees.
Q Help! I have grown beautiful lilies for years but in the last two years I have been losing the battle with lily beetles. The lilies are just barely coming up and I have already been picking the beetles off. I am at a loss as to what to use on them to eliminate them. I would appreciate any help you can offer.
A If you can’t keep up with handpicking the little varmints, then your next step would be to use a residual insecticide such as Doktor Doom House and Garden. The active ingredient in this product is permethrin, which is the man-made equivalent of the natural insecticide pyrethrin. Permethrin has an added benefit because of its residual properties, which help it last longer and have a greater impact on the lily beetle issue.
I suggest you spray the Doktor Doom House and Garden as soon as green growth shows on your lilies in the spring. Apply it again once you see more insect activity. It is likely you will only have to do this application twice during the growing season. Keep vigilant though, and if you see new varmints hatch then apply the spray once more.
Q I hope that you can offer some advice concerning a fern leaf peony that has become too large for its space. Is it possible to divide or split this plant? If so, when and how should I split it?
A Fern leaf peonies are easy to divide, and the plant will actually do even better once divided. Wait until early to late September to divide the fern leaf peony. Lift the clump carefully and wash away the soil to expose the eyes. Using a very sharp knife or cutting tool, divide the clump into pieces that each have at least three to five eyes and a good set of roots. Plant these divisions immediately. If the divisions are allowed to dry out they will die rather quickly. Also, try to divide the plant on a cool day for the best results.