Edmonton Journal

FOOD AND WINE PAIRINGS TO SAVOUR FOR SUMMER

When matching, consider how the food is prepared so that drink acts as seasoning

- JUANITA ROOS

Sommeliers follow a few basic guidelines when pairing wine with food, carefully matching the intensity of flavours and body of the wine to the dish. What we’re looking for is an interactio­n where the food and wine complement each other.

There are no hard and fast rules. Ultimately, it’s subjective — if you like the pairing, that’s what counts. Sometimes we’re reminiscin­g about a place we’ve visited or people with whom we’ve enjoyed a glass, all contributi­ng to the pleasure of a pairing experience.

My strategy is to consider the preparatio­n method — braising, grilling, etc. — and then think of the wine’s main characteri­stics as a seasoning for the dish being paired. For example, consider pairing grilled prawns with a lighter bodied, crisp wine with flavours of citrus and fresh herbs — perhaps a Sauvignon Blanc, Provencal or Cerasuolo rosé, or a Vermentino. Avoid full-bodied, full-flavoured, tannic wines such as Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon, because notes of black currant, leather and clove don’t sound appealing with prawns.

Swapping the shellfish for steak changes the equation and I would consider a wine that is heavier bodied, with tannin and texture, darker red and/or black fruit, with some barrel aging notes like spice and leather.

Try some of the following summer-inspired stellar wine and food pairings.

Champagne and crispy, salty, potato chips is a fabulous pairing. Our family indulgence is pairing champagne with my son-in-law Ramon’s insanely delicious, crispy-fried chicken. A dry, rich, slightly oxidative sparkling wine would work in place of the champagne. When I get stuck on pairing a dish with multiple flavours, sparkling is what I pick.

Mussels and Muscadet “sur lie.” (Sur lie, refers to wine that’s been aged for a bit on the dead yeast, called lees, which adds a creamy rich note to the wine.)

A finer red Burgundy, or any quality Pinot Noir, and salmon is a classic pairing. Summer calls for a wine with a lighter body (meaning you can see through the wine in your glass). Tuck the Pinot Noir into an ice bucket for a chill before serving.

Grenache, or Garnacha as it’s known as in Spain, is a great choice if you are looking for a red that pairs perfectly with a beef burger off the grill. It’s aromatic, smooth with juicy fruit, cherry and strawberry and lovely herbal notes.

Grilled steak and lamb chops, particular­ly if prepared with garlic, are a match with a Cabernet Sauvignon, or a Chianti Classico Reserva. However, if you’re braising the lamb, a Beaujolais cru is a better pairing.

Wine isn’t supposed to be stuffy and complicate­d. At Taste of Edmonton last week I had fun pairing with the “beer garden” list. Normand’s braised short rib with creamy mashed and jus was so amazing that the smooth and fruity Aussie Cabernet/Merlot blend worked very well.

These are just some general rules that hopefully inspire you to contemplat­e what to pair. When it works, it can be magical.

Wine selections are available at select shops in Alberta. Log onto liquorconn­ect.com to check availabili­ty and then call to verify if the store has it.

GREMILLET 375 ML $29

Champagne, France

Champagne from a family that has had vineyards since the 18th century. Rich and round while still elegant, bursting with berries because it’s composed of 70 per cent Pinot Noir. Ramon said if he’s not cooking, he’ll pick up a crispy chicken Karaage from Izakaya Tomo or his old standby, (hurry, they sell out quickly) Ralph’s Handi Mart in Strathearn.

2014 CHÂTEAU DE L’OISELINIÈR­E — CUVÉE “LES ILLUSTRES” $20

Muscadet Sèvre et Maine AOP, France

This wine is made from 100 per cent Melon de Bourgogne grapes and it overdelive­rs in both flavours and aromas. Blossomy, lime zest, creamy peach and apricots. Fiona, my well-travelled friend, has referred to the Moules et frites with a Muscadet sur lie at Café Bicyclette (in the French Quarter) as one of the best pairings in Edmonton. Not to mention they have one of the best patios in the city.

2016 CHEVERNY, DOMAINE DU SALVARD $22

Loire, France

A blend of 85 per cent Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay produced by fifth-generation family members. Simple and elegant while being fresh and aromatic, peach, with a creamy note from lees contact. Tricia, from Cavern on 104 Street, recommends the fresh chévre (goat and cow’s milk) as the “natural pairing … true soulmates.” Must say I am in complete agreement with that statement! Wonderful streetside patio to relax and enjoy watching the downtown bustle. By the glass at Wishbone as well.

2015 PURPLE HANDS PINOT NOIR $36

Willamette Valley, Oregon

Cody Wright is a winemaker with a long history in the industry. He started helping is father, the iconic Ken Wright, when he was just seven years old. Cody and his lovely wife, Marque, are sustainabi­lity focused and use non-interventi­ve winemaking techniques. Pinot Noir is a finicky grape and it can be a real challenge for even the best winemakers to produce wines of this quality. This is his entry level bottling that will mesmerize the most conditione­d Pinot lover. Elegant, lush red raspberry and strawberri­es dusted with cocoa, followed by floral notes and cigar. Beautiful wine.

2014 POWERS CABERNET SAUVIGNON $22

Columbia Valley, Washington

Bill Powers leaves his winemaker, Jose Mendoza, to practise his “art of blending ” to create a full-flavoured wine. This wine is a blend of four different vineyards with a splash of Merlot and Malbec to smooth it out. Dark and firm with layers of black currants, blackberri­es, red currants and baking spices from spending 18 months in barrel. This was a warm vintage so loads of ripe fruits on a bed of fine tannins and fresh acidity. Terrific value for a great example of Washington state Cabernet Sauvignon.

2012 IL GRIGIO CHIANTI CLASSICO RESERVA $29

San Felice, Italy

Full-bodied wine from a quality producer with a “modern” approach to winemaking while protecting the traditions of the region. Wild strawberri­es, violets and a lean, tangy and structured palate. Patrick at The Marc said, “it’s a solid Sangiovese that pairs so well with the steak” frites.

2015 L’EFECTE VOLADOR $23

Montsant, Spain

Josep Grau is the winemaker who left the world of finance to realize his dream, which is to produce wines that reflect the area and the vintage. Organicall­y-grown Syrah, Garnacha and Carignane. Fresh ripe cherries and blueberrie­s mingled with notes of smoke and spice. Definitely a great burger wine. Wishbone has this Garnacha blend on the list and a brilliant burger with American cheddar and all the fixings. It’s on their lunch menu and you will not be disappoint­ed!

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