Tannin, acidity, body and balance — a quick reference for all you cork dorks out there
Deciphering what we taste can help us enjoy the experience, writes Juanita Roos
A wonderful woman lent me a book, Cork Dork, by Bianca Bosker.
I was in stitches by the second page — “For you a glass of wine might be your happy place. The thing you reach for at the end of a long day … If you want to keep it this way, then stay far, far away …” It is essentially saying, stay away from sommeliers and wine aficionados if you don’t want to overthink what’s in your glass.
Funny, I hadn’t considered that it wasn’t just we wine “dorks” who revel in anticipation of what pleasures will unfold. The ritual of deciphering and recording what we’re tasting helps to track vintage changes, winemaker styles and how a wine changes and holds with time.
When a glass of wine is poured for work or pleasure, wine professionals will automatically begin the analyzing ceremony by tipping their glass slightly to study the rim (the thin, often watery edge) to determine if a wine is mature with a hint of brick or orange — a purple tint would be an indication of youthfulness. After a rigorous swirl, they immerse their nose into the glass to decode the aromas. A final look at the liquid and the grand finale — listing off the flavours from a sensory bank of experiences. We then take it a step further and jot down some notes to compare with other vintages and tastings. It really does seem like quite a rigorous process for a simple pleasure, and best described as an obsession for some of us.
Here’s a quick reference of tasting terms often used. We note intensity levels when describing each characteristic as low, medium or high.
What is tannin? You will recognize tannin as a dry, bitter, textured sensation between your lips and gums. Tannin is derived from the skin, seeds and stalks, as well as from a wood barrel. Examples of grapes that contain high levels of tannin would be Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Tannat and Nebbiolo. Gamay, Dolcetto, Barbera and Pinot Noir would have lower tannin levels.
What is acidity? This is not the “citrus” component but the sensation on the sides of your tongue, mouth-watering. If a wine is high in acidity, you feel that if you tipped your head forward you would be drooling. Grapes naturally higher in acidity are generally ones that prefer growing and ripening in cooler regions — for example Albarino, Pinot Gris/Grigio and Riesling. Lower acidity would be found in Viognier and Ehrenfelser.
What is body? You can compare the body of wine to the weight of milk. Skim being the lightest (Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir) up to full fat (think ice wine and Sauternes).
What is balance in a wine? When these components exist harmoniously, and this is subjective, you will find balance. Many of the top “ah-ha” wine epiphanies involve a wine that is at its peak with a perfect balance of fruit, sweetness, fresh acidity and texture. Lucky moments indeed.
MARISCO NED PINOT NOIR 2015 $21
MARLBOROUGH, NEW ZEALAND Most of us think Sauvignon Blanc and New Zealand. But they also make top-notch Pinot Noir. Marisco is owned by Brent Marris, who was a winemaker for Oyster Bay. This is a rich, smoky, fruit forward Pinot Noir with medium acidity, light-medium body and light tannins. Easy and delicious with roasted chicken and autumn vegetables. You find this on the list at Japonais Bistro. By the glass at The Canadian Brewhouse.
G.D. VAJRA LANGHE NEBBIOLO 2015 $35
PIEDMONT, ITALY
I am completely enamoured by this producer. This also enforces my belief that if you really love a wine, you will likely enjoy many of the other wines by the same producer. Aldo Vaira said this was a difficult vintage but led to one of the best in recent years. A complex and perfumed example of Nebbiolo from northwest Italy with fresh red strawberries and raspberries, rose petals, violets and earth. Robust wine with medium-high tannin, medium acidity and medium-full bodied. Pair with lamb, rabbit, beef stew, or chicken with mushrooms. Find on the wine lists at Corso32 and Uccellino.
SUMMERHILL EHENFELSER 2014 $26
OKANAGAN VALLEY, B.C. Uncommon varietal with Germanic roots that thrives at Summerhill’s Pyramid Winery. A little residual sugar helps the balance of intense and luscious aromatics and flavours, and to compensate for the low acidity. Light-medium bodied, no tannin and bursting with apricot, grapefruit, peaches, topical fruits and orange-blossom. Enjoy as an aperitif or with Thai and mildly spiced Asian fare. Find on the list at Almanac on Whyte.
ORCHARDS LANE SAUVIGNON BLANC 2016 $17
MARLBOROUGH, NEW ZEALAND Not only a gorgeous label but great juice as well. Tremendous value and typical Sauvignon Blanc from this region. Bursting with vibrancy, hence the high acid, light body and of course no tannins in this white. Lemon grass, citrus, passion fruit, peach and herbs with a mouth-watering finish. Available in town at Otto, Culina Muttart and the Red Piano.