Some Spanish red wines to complement autumn's rich stews and roasts
Old-world superstar wines from Rioja just what the season needs, writes Juanita Roos
Time to wrap yourself in your favourite sweater and enjoy autumn’s fresh crisp air and crunchy leaves, then dig out recipes for rich stews, roasted meats and fall vegetables. These dishes beckon a discussion on Rioja, the superstar oldworld-styled red wines from Spain.
Rioja is approximately 31/2 hours north of Madrid and three hours south of San Sebastian, a region that attracts wealthy investors, state-of-the-art wineries and top winemakers (and Michelin-starred restaurants!).
Bottles can be 100-per-cent Tempranillo (pronounced “temp-rah-nee-yo”) or have lesser amounts of Graciano, Garnacha, Mazuelo and Maturana Tinta blended in as well. Anticipate rich complex aromas and flavours of earthy cherry, dark berries, plums and, oddly enough, fresh tomato notes.
Of course, once the wines are aged in wood you will encounter hints of leather, licorice, tobacco, vanilla and cedar.
Generally medium-intensity all-around — acidity, body, and tannin levels — which makes them extremely popular, Tempranillo’s classic pairing is the traditional and amazing Iberico ham as well as roasted and braised meats. Of course, it’s a solid choice for a cheese plate.
There is a great deal of information to be found on the label. The name of the Bodega will be on the front, for example Lopez de Haro, Marques de Murrieta and Riscal. Now turn the bottle around and note the numbered back label/seal that guarantees the aging category. The coloured stamp indicates the level of oak and the style of wine in the bottle. The classification system is a pyramid where quality and price increase with the length of time in the barrel.
A leaf-green coloured sticker is on the bulk of the wine from the region and usually indicates the wine is youthful — but only certifies the wine’s origin and vintage. Usually, these will have very little if any time in a barrel and be easy-drinking and full of fresh youthful fruits. This category also includes other wines that don’t fit in the aging classification system, the oddities.
Next up the ladder is Crianza. The sticker on the back will be a bright cherry red. This style is aged a minimum of one year in a barrel plus another year in bottle. Therefore, you will see the current release of Rioja Crianza when they are minimum two years old.
Reserva wine will have a darker burnt-red sticker and is produced only with quality vintages that have aging potential — aged a minimum of three years with at least one year in cask.
The top of the Rioja pyramid, producing long-lived, world-class wines, is the Gran Reserva, sporting a blue sticker and bottled only in exceptional vintages — spending at least two years in oak casks and a further three years aging in bottle before leaving the winery. It seems incredible that wineries do all the aging for us, releasing these wines after five years so they are ready to drink upon release.
Here are three top-quality producers that I would highly recommend you search out to experience the quality of wines from Rioja. A great subject for a wine club or a personal exploration is to try one of each style. You’ll be amazed by the transformation from a youthful, deeply coloured, almost Bordeaux style all the way through to a lighter, ethereal Burgundian elegance.
INSPIRACION VALDEMAR SELECCION 2012, $26 RIOJA, SPAIN
This wine breaks all the rules — although it has a green sticker on the back it didn’t fit into the traditional rules of the classification system. Mostly Tempranillo, with 25-per-cent Graciano and 10-per-cent Maturana blended in. A rich and more modern expression of ripe red fruits, vanilla and spice. Juicy and smooth with the complexity you would expect from five years of aging. Terrific value.
LOPEZ DE HARO CRIANZA 2013, $18 RIOJA, SPAIN
This wine is mostly Tempranillo with some Garnacha and Graciano, aged in older barrels of French and American oak for 18 months. You will find fresh ripe red fruits with hints of licorice, coffee, vanilla, and balsamic, smooth and easy to drink. Chop Steakhouse & Bar lists the Reserva ($27) which has 10 months in barrel, giving it intense aromas of ripe fruits with notes of spice, vanilla, balsamic on a rich and round palate. A wonderful elegant Rioja.
MARQUES DE MURRIETA RESERVA 2011, $37 RIOJA, SPAIN
The founder of this bodegas was born in Peru, exiled to England and ended up in Bordeaux, which became his inspiration to create wines with intensity, complexity and elegance. A bottling of mostly Tempranillo (89 per cent) with Mazuelo, Graciano and Garnacha. This Reserva spent two years in new and partly new barrels, then another year and a half aging in bottle. A beautiful wine with cherry, blackberries, plum, cocoa with wonderful balance, texture and finesse and a long finish. On the list at Ampersand27 on Whyte.
MARQUES DE RISCAL GRAN RESERVA 2006, $50 RIOJA, SPAIN
This wine is killer. Composed of 90-per-cent Tempranillo with a splash of Graciano and Mazuelo. Exemplifying tradition and with 10 years of aging it still has intensity of fruit but with the nuances from the barrel that are so well integrated (spice, tobacco, coffee and cocoa), it is a real show-stopper. Classic elegance. Not to mention the winery was designed by Frank Gehry. Hardware Grill downtown has this gem on its list.
Wine selections are available at select shops in Alberta. Log onto liquorconnect.com to check availability and give them a call to verify.