Edmonton Journal

Warm up with some classic curries

- MARIAM IBRAHIM

Cooler months have swept into Edmonton and with the change in leaves comes my change in appetite, from light and fresh to warm and comforting.

Hence my recent search for a meal layered with flavours and warm enough to distract me from Edmonton’s biting fall winds.

Loft Thai Eatery is tucked away in a bland, inward facing shopping plaza just off 53 Avenue. If I hadn’t been looking specifical­ly for the restaurant, I might have missed it entirely.

Inside, though, is a modern, bright and welcoming space that feels larger than the tiny 20-seat space actually is. Everything is impeccably clean, from the small bar to tidy restrooms.

We were greeted quickly by our server, who seemed relieved to have some customers dining in. That’s not to say Loft’s kitchen wasn’t steady while we enjoyed our dinner — but the majority of customers who came through the doors left just as quickly with takeout in tow.

My friend and I took our menus to a cosy table in the corner and started our meal with a couple of specialty cocktails — the Loft “Zap” rim caesar ($8) for me, and a Lunar Storm spiced rum cocktail ($8.50) for her.

Our drinks were fine, but not especially memorable. My caesar was pretty plain, despite the tangy spices lining the rim (zap means “delicious” in Thai), and would have benefited from a bit more complexity within the cocktail itself. The Lunar Storm, however, was a harmony of spiced rum, club soda and ginger ale, plus lime juice and ginger syrup, and avoided the trap of becoming too sweet.

Loft’s menu carries many of the expected Thai classics, but executive chef Chon Vichitvora­kul has also created a special “signature” selection of more refined plates like steak, ribs, braised beef and duck confit.

Before diving into the main offerings, my friend and I started with a plate of glistening vegetable spring rolls ($8.50 for five), served piping hot out of the fryer alongside a small crisp salad and an apple-chili dipping sauce. Our first bite revealed a brilliant array of crispy vegetables and vermicelli tightly stuffed into the plump roll. We were impressed the filling maintained its texture and didn’t become an unidentifi­able mushy mess.

I fed my soup craving with a Tom Yum with prawns ($8) and wasn’t sorry. The warm, spicy broth completely enveloped me as I took my first few slurps, and was pleased to discover several plump prawns swimming among the chunks of tomato and mushroom. And the portion is generous for its price, bigger than a side soup but not too big to fill you up before your main entree.

Having tried out the more traditiona­l offerings to start, we decided on a few of chef Vichitvora­kul’s signature plates as our main dishes. I opted for the Loft Gai Yang ($22), a slow-cooked half chicken marinated with a blend of lemongrass and other bright flavours, while my friend was tempted by the Crying Tiger AAA Alberta striploin steak ($25).

My chicken arrived plated alongside a small side of steamed carrots, zucchini and cauliflowe­r and a smear of delicious and creamy coconut carrot purée (perhaps my favourite component), along with a couple of “nam jim” (dipping sauces) for the chicken. Truthfully, the chicken barely needed any frills — the meat was so succulent and tender. Our server took the time to explain the chicken had been slow roasting for hours and that effort came through in the flavour.

The steak, on the other hand, was less than stellar. The meat felt somewhat dry and tough, and the plate itself seemed a bit boring as it was accompanie­d by the same side of plain veggies and a simple glaze.

Each entree also comes with your choice of salad, jasmine rice or coconut rice — the last two arriving in quite a large portion, leaving both of us with plenty left over.

We both left happy, but I somehow felt as though I’d been cheated. I went back the following week to instead sample a traditiona­l red curry, and discovered why. The fragrant and vibrant dish ($15 with beef or chicken, $17.50 with prawns or seafood), was a perfect medley of classic aromatic Thai flavours.

It’s clear that chef Vichitvora­kul’s kitchen is a labour of love and kudos to him for introducin­g a more modern twist on traditiona­l Thai dishes. Still, despite the care he clearly devotes to Loft’s more refined side of the menu, the classic options, like the curries, somehow seemed more interestin­g and most importantl­y, better tasting.

I’ll definitely be back again to Loft Thai Eatery, but I’ll stick to the classics from now on.

 ?? PHOTOS: GREG SOUTHAM ?? The Loft Thai Eatery is a modern, bright and welcoming space that feels larger than its 20-seat space suggests.
PHOTOS: GREG SOUTHAM The Loft Thai Eatery is a modern, bright and welcoming space that feels larger than its 20-seat space suggests.
 ??  ?? Chef Chon Vichitvora­kul with the mango sticky rice. He’s introduced a modern twist to traditiona­l Thai dishes.
Chef Chon Vichitvora­kul with the mango sticky rice. He’s introduced a modern twist to traditiona­l Thai dishes.
 ??  ?? Braised Duck confit curry
Braised Duck confit curry

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