SARDINIAN WINES REFLECT THE INTENSE RICHNESS OF THE MEDITERRANEAN ISLAND
What could be better than a holiday destination with sandy beaches, pastoral hills dotted with grazing sheep, olive groves and best of all, amazing wines? Wine from Sardinia, an island off Italy’s west coast in the Mediterranean Sea, deserves more attention.
Cannonau, a.k.a. Grenache, is the island’s most recognized grape varietal. It produces soft, rich, red wines with concentrated fruits, mingled with floral notes, warm spices and then all-wrapped-up in freshness. The island also produces white wines including some of the most delicious Vermentino to be found anywhere. It’s intensely aromatic and flavourful with green apple, peach, a distinctive salinity and fresh minerality. Of course, there are many other varietals grown on the island such as Carignano, Nebbiolo, Moscato, Malvasia, and Bovale.
Sardinian wines are paired with some of the local specialties including many types of cheese, such as an aged Pecorino, and meats including salami, lamb and wild boar. And there is an interesting, local, specialty cheese called Casu Marzu containing live fly larva. Sounds frightening but I hope to have a chance to sample it one day.
Recently we had a visit from Beppe Pinna, the wine ambassador representing the Argiolas winery. He was born and raised on Sardinia and although he is not family, he has worked for the Argiolas family for more than 18 years. He says that there are more centenarians in Sardinia than anywhere else in the world and life expectancy of men is the same as for women. How interesting! Perhaps it’s the wine? No definitive studies to date.
A strong community, healthy, simple meals, manual labour and wine are what Beppe attributes to the longevity and health of local Sardinians.
Argiolas was founded by Antonio in 1937 and he lived to be 103 years of age. Antonio worked five days a week (up until three days before his death!) sitting on a chair outside the winery, filling bulk wine containers for the locals. Customers could choose from two wines at the farm gate: a red (Cannanou) and one white wine (Vermentino). Antonio also kept track and recorded each sale.
The winery is now run by the third Argiolas generation, Antonio’s grandchildren.
Ask for Sardinian wine at your local shop. Here are some wonderful recommendations.
2016 ARGIOLAS COSTAMOLINO VERMENTINO $26
Love the minerality, salty and peachy notes of this flavourful white wine. The vineyard is influenced by the sea (only 10 kilometres from the vineyard). A beautiful wine that would pair perfectly with many seafood dishes or as an aperitif. On the list at Canteen, Buco and Sorrentino’s.
2014 SURRAU CANNONAU DI SARDEGNA DOC $26
This hidden gem is a rich dry red wine that is made from 100 per cent Cannonau. It’s fresh and bright with no wood aging, using only stainless steel and concrete. You will enjoy the concentrated aromas and flavours of juicy red fruits and spice with a full-bodied soft palate.
2014 ARGIOLAS COSTERA CANNANOU $31
This wine is 90 per cent Cannanou with a splash of Carignano and Bovale. Concentrated aromas of cherries on a lush palate with fine soft tannins that linger on a mouth-watering finish. Pair with lamb, barbecued sausage and medium-aged Pecorino cheese. Keep an eye out for the soon-tobe-released 2015 vintage that is even more aromatic with darker fruits and a juicier and softer expression. On the list at Corso 32, Uccellino and Bar Bricco.
2013 KOREM IGT $52
A blend of 65 per cent Bovale with Carignano (grown in sandy soil seaside) and Cannonau that is a highly perfumed wine bursting with fresh and dried cherries, vanilla, spices, from spending one year in new French oak. Fresh, complex, soft but complex and satisfyingly juicy. Corso 32 has Korem on their wine list.
2009 TURRIGA $87
This is the rare and soughtafter flagship wine from Argiolas winery. A more “masculine” style than Korem with concentrated berries from two years in French barriques. A full-bodied, opulent, rich wine with softness and balance. On the list at Corso 32.
Wine selections are available at select shops in Alberta. Log onto liquorconnect.com to check availability and give them a call to verify.
Juanita Roos opened Color de Vino, a fine wine and spirits store, with her family in 2014. She has travelled to wine regions around the world and completed the prestigious WSET Diploma from London, England, the prerequisite for the Master of Wine program. Send your questions about wine to info@colordevino.ca.