NO RESERVATIONS REQUIRED TO ENJOY WINE BY THE GLASS
Edmonton is getting welldeserved national attention for its top-quality food scene. To achieve this status, these restaurants all have some things in common — talented chefs with a “vision,” using quality ingredients, plus they all have excellent wine lists with equal creativity and consideration. Thankfully, we are seeing wine-by-the-glass programs improving as well, and they deserve some recognition. Here’s a look at my top wine-bythe-glass spots with no-reservation bar seating on the south side of the river.
Interesting wines of quality being poured by the glass is a relatively new phenomenon in Edmonton. We’re seeing an upswing in moving away from the “so last year” glass pours of mass-produced, commercial and homogeneous wines. Previously it was the boring and the overlymanipulated examples of Pinot Grigio, over-oaked Chardonnay, jammy Zinfandel, over-extracted Napa Cabernet Sauvignon and of course the safe choice, Malbec. These are easy and often simple, lacking freshness and guaranteed to induce a headache from elevated levels of sugar and alcohol. Or just plain boring.
Some establishments are responding to the growing movement towards food and wines that are both made with little manipulation, and with respect to the environment and our bodies. They serve wines that not only pair with the food on the menu but that are balanced, fresh and change with each vintage. That’s the key. In each vintage the weather and harvest play an integral role in grape development, and that is what makes wine special. You anticipate a cooler vintage to have more vibrancy than a hot vintage, which would result in less acidity and more ripeness. Vintage variation, versus manipulating wines so that they are the same year after year.
Here are my top stops for a great glass of wine when I want to unwind or catch up on work. Of course, the food is equally awesome, and no reservation is required.
Pip Food & Drink, located next to sister restaurants Meat and The Next Act in Old Strathcona, is the newest addition to Edmonton’s wine bar scene. I may be a little biased because this list was curated by my son-in-law, Ramon Miranda, but it’s an impressive list with something for everyone. Nothing funky, you won’t need a wine dictionary to order a glass here. The varietals are all recognizable, but the choices are fun and well thought out. Nine red wines from Faively Pinot Noir, a Fleurie, Rosso Montalcino, up to a Rioja Reserva and three white wines including an Alvarinho and a little white Burgundy from Macon. The general manager, Michael Angus, said they missed having a wine bar and it’s something he couldn’t wait to get off the ground. It is open from 10 a.m. to 11 p.m. seven days a week. Oh, and they have a tremendous brunch everyday!
Blind Enthusiasm Brewing
Company is a hot spot in the Ritchie neighbourhood. Tucked within these walls is a cheese bar — slow down my beating heart (I love cheese). There are six seats at the cheese bar and a fabulous wine-by-the-glass selection that is ever-changing. The wine list mirrors the brilliant chef Christine Sandford’s passion and love of transparency with food and wine. These are honest wines that often fit into the “natural” or, better stated, low-manipulation category. Have some fun and step out of your comfort zone. Pair the Col Fondo with … anything. This week there is also Swick Mourvedre, Birichino Malvasia and TH Riesling. You can order from the full menu and wine list as well at the bar. Something completely new and interesting for Edmonton.
Leva is a tucked-away gem in the Garneau/university area. A casual atmosphere with a small but well-thought-out list. The wine list was Joe’s own, but he is just too busy after opening Ace coffee in Strathcona and has passed the torch to Nicole Brandt. He has put together some interesting lists in Edmonton (including Mayday Dogs in the Mercer building, which is very fun). Sounds like they are printing a new wine-by-the-glass list soon, but this weekend you will find Concerto Lambrusco, a Falanghina, an Italian rose and Volpaia Citto.
No reservations required to stop for a well-curated list created by people with a passion, and the only criteria is a great selection of wine available by the glass and great food, of course.
Stay tuned for next week’s downtown glass-pour lists.
Here are some wines I’m enjoying that are top quality, interesting, represent the vintage and would be great additions to any wine-by-the-glass list.
GRAY MONK PINOT GRIS 2015 $ 23
Delicious wine with citrus, pink grapefruit, peach and tropical fruits with a refreshingly lively finish. 2015 started with a difficult cold spring but was saved by a hot and dry summer that was significantly warmer than previous years, overall a great year for the vines. Perfect as an aperitif or pair with lighter dishes, including seafood and salads.
FAIVELEY PINOT NOIR ‘ PAULEE’ 2014 $ 33
Incredible producer from France and one of Burgundy’s greatest. Vibrant wine (a cooler year than 2015 and 2016) with ripe red berries, a light body and silky tannins. A beautiful wine that is too easy, elegant and satisfying. Enjoy alone or pair with an array of foods from light appetizers to spicier dishes. By the glass at Pip.
D’ANGELO AGLIANICO DEL VULTURE 2013 $24
This is a grape that is getting some well-deserved attention. It is grown in Basilicata in the south of Italy on volcanic soil. If you like Cabernet Sauvignon and Nebbiolo then you will likely enjoy this full-bodied, bold and concentrated wine. This grape loves heat and 2013 was a challenging year — cooler conditions with a wet spring and summer (resulting in lower yields), although the autumn was long and hot allowing the grapes to fully ripen.
This wine offers complexity, structure, intensity of fruit with ripe plum, dried herbs and spices, loads of blackberries, with beautiful freshness (from a cooler vintage) and a long complex finish. Perfect paired with any grilled meat.
DOMAINE GAUBY CALCINAIRES ROUGE 2015 $ 30
I am a worshipper of anything Gauby from Roussillon in southwestern France. The wines are brilliant. This wine is a blend of Carignan, Syrah, Grenache and Mourvedre.
It starts out very restrained on the nose with a smooth and engaging palate, but, if you wait just five minutes, the slow interaction with oxygen after you pour a glass allows the true colours to shine through. Layers upon layers of dark and red fruits, forest floor and fresh herbs start to unfold in unexpected ways and the integration with the velvety smooth medium body are worth taking time to contemplate. Just leave the cork on the counter and let this gem breath for a day or two. A well-made wine with no intervention and no filtering that is completely transparent and honest. The year 2015 was stellar in Roussillon, producing healthy ripe fruit and a bountiful vintage. Salut.
Wine selections are available at select Alberta shops. Log onto liquorconnect.com to check availability and give them a call to verify.