VEGAN-FRIENDLY WINES PACKED WITH UNFINED FLAVOUR AND COMPLEXITY
The demand for vegan friendly wines is increasing, and we are getting more questions in the shop about wine additives.
The answer lies in the specific fining agents used to clarify the wines. If a wine is unfined, unfiltered and no animal-based products were used in the process, it qualifies as vegan-friendly. Of course, this column is based on the winemaking and a vegan diet could also take into consideration farming process, such as fertilizer, corks, and seals such as beeswax.
Fining is the process of removing bits of grape, yeast, tannins, colour, off-flavours to prevent or eliminate spoilage. Fining can also be used as a tool to remove colour (especially in white wines) and to reduce excessively high tannin levels.
The process involves using a coagulant that is added to the wine as a powder or liquid to attract the finest of bits to form into larger particles that will precipitate by falling to the bottom of the vat or barrel. Then they can be removed by filtration or racking, the process of siphoning off the clear, settled wine and leaving the muck at the bottom. Given time, usually in higher quality wines, these particles would naturally settle to the bottom. But more commercial, less expensive wines often don’t have time.
Here are the most common fining agents used:
Organic and protein-based fining agents are used to remove unwanted tannins or colour and they also render a wine non-vegan friendly. Some of the most commonly used are casein (milk), albumen (egg white), gelatin (bone) and isinglass (a gelatinous substance obtained from fish bladder). And yes, I have been asked the strange question, “is ox blood ever used to fine a wine?” I can safely say, nope — it’s illegal in most of the world, including Canada, United States and France. In the wines of yore, perhaps.
The only acceptable fining agent for a vegan diet is a mineral-based clay powder made from volcanic ash (discovered in Wyoming) called bentonite, which is added to remove proteins and organic matter.
Risk of allergic reactions and dietary restrictions by using the protein-based fining agents are causing many producers to avoid animal-derived substances and many are moving toward using only plant-based bentonite. Although there is minimal residue from the fining agents, they will tend to lighten the body of a wine and the general consensus is the less used, the better.
A wine that isn’t clarified can become cloudy or hazy in appearance, which can be a bit unexpected and more unfamiliar than the clear, commercial and consumerfriendly wines we see most.
Demand is up for unfiltered wine and it makes sense. If you fine a wine, it will be stripped of colour, flavour and character. I personally prefer less filtration and a wine that is as unprocessed and as natural as possible.
Vegan-friendly wines are worth the search. Checking wine labels is also worthwhile. We are seeing more information on labels all the time.
Eric, our favourite vegan and top-notch shop wine consultant, offered some great selections packed with unfined flavour, colour, complexity and vibrancy.
MENTI-RONCAIE SUI LIEVI 2016 $26
The winemaker’s passion and excitement are contagious. The winery looks beautiful in photos. The image of an outdoor wall of grape bunches, hanging to concentrate the flavours, looks so beautiful. This wine is a fizzy, natural wine made from 100 per cent Garganega grapes from Italy that is insanely delicious. It has sweet and sour tropical and citrus notes with loads of complexity, freshness and deliciousness. It is bottled without sulphites and unfined, making it vegan. The sediment on the bottom should be shaken into the wine until cloudy, and then enjoy! Menti is often on the list at Biera.
ANDELUNA 1300 MALBEC 2016 $22
This award-winning Argentinian wine just came back into stock and it’s worth the wait. The 1300 in the name represents the metres above sea level of the vineyard. This is a wonderful wine that’s silky smooth and full of succulent black berries, cherries and mocha mingling with spice and floral notes. The Barale Family runs the winery now, but it was founded by a member of the Frito-Lay family. Fined with bentonite.
MAS DEL PERIE LES ESCURES 2016 $24
Although Malbec is best known from Argentina, the grape’s origin is actually Cahors, France, and this is a great example of one. This winery has been owned and operated by the same family for four generations. The vineyards are farmed biodynamically and the wines are all bottled unfined and unfiltered, hence vegan. This is a wine with depth and complexity, black berries, plum, smoky, soft and very appealing.
GLEN CARLOU CHARDONNAY 2014 $22
This South African winery earned the prestigious Integrity and Sustainability Seal, ensuring commitment to sustainable, ecofriendly production and all their wines are fined with bentonite, making them vegan-friendly. It is a Chardonnay created by blending the fruit of several vineyards to create this well-balanced wine that has ripe apples, pear, citrus and toasty oak notes. Cha for Tea, Tasty Noodle and Wildflower have this on their lists.
GLEN CARLOU GRAND CLASSIQUE 2013 $24
A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot, Malbec and Cabernet Franc from South Africa that is both complex and elegant with loads of juicy fruit supported by layers of savoury herbs, spice and cocoa notes. A great vintage and a tremendous value that is a favourite on the list at Upper Crust Café as well as at La Ronde Restaurant in the Chateau Lacombe Hotel and Homefire Grill.
TAROT ALPHA BOX AND DICE GRENACHE 2016 $27
As the name suggests, this wine is from a fun and kooky small winery from a young and passionate team in McLaren Vale, Australia, who make interesting, characterful wines with minimal intervention, and it is vegan friendly. The label has a colourful tarot card that predicts doom for the vineyard, but it’s brought back to life by the Alpha Box and Dice crew. The website is great, and they describe this aromatic, vibrant, light, juicy strawberry/ raspberry wine as, “white pepper, fairy floss, plum,” and you know, it kind of does! Holy Roller has it on the list and a rumour has it appearing at Earls as well.
These are available at select Alberta shops. Log onto liquorconnect.com to check availability and give them a call to verify.