Selected value and iconic Merlot wines to suit all palates
Underappreciated varietal often found in blends, but it can stand on its own
The 2004 film Sideways started an anti-Merlot movement that still resonates in our market. We can’t help quoting the famous line by Paul Giamatti’s character, Miles, “If anyone orders Merlot, I’m leaving. I am NOT drinking any #@%* Merlot.” Sure, there are many cheap, simple, fruity versions — but there are many high-quality, top-rated wines in the world made from this varietal. Merlot is an underappreciated and misunderstood grape that’s grown in almost every wine-producing region in the world. It’s often added to Cabernet Sauvignon to add fleshiness (there are legal minimum amounts that can be added, but the label will state only Cabernet Sauvignon). Pay no attention to Merlot naysayers. If you give it a chance I think there is one out there for everyone’s palate, from the lean, lighter bodied, freshness of cool climate expressions to the full-bodied, rich, lush and intense wines from warmer climes. Merlot offers flavours of ripe plums (if the grapes are over-ripened it can taste more like prunes, which I don’t prefer), blackberries, cherries and often sweet vanilla notes. But if you venture to the over $25 category, you will discover luscious, more complex wines that are layered with flavours, including cocoa, cedar, spice and a fine smooth tannic structure. Pair cool climate, mostly Old World wines (for example Italy and France) with rich, savoury dishes such as beef stew, tourtière and pork recipes. Keep in mind, most of the New World versions (for example, California and Canada) produce fatter, more fullbodied wines that will pair with barbecues and even grilled tuna — there are exceptions, but it’s a good general rule of thumb. The irony of the impact of the movie Sideways on Merlot was that the wine he coveted and opened at the end of the movie was a 1961 Cheval Blanc, which is a blend of Merlot and Cabernet Franc! (Rumour has it the director was denied permission to use Petrus.) Here are my picks for Merlot from three different countries, each with a value wine and an iconic wine.
ITALY Bortoluzzi Merlot 2015 $24
Three siblings are at the helm of the family-owned and operated winery which is located approximately one hour northeast of Venice. This 100 per cent Merlot is beautifully balanced with soft acidity and concentrated cherries, blackberries and notes from the barrel aging such as herbs and spice. It’s destined to pair with rich meat-based dishes from lasagna to ragout.
Petrolo Galatrona 2014 $152
Italy has some of the most highly acclaimed and collectible Merlots in the world, including Petrolo winery’s flagship wine Galatrona, which is also the name of the vineyard. This is a 100 per cent Merlot from Tuscany. A wine in its toddler stage right now, both elegant and full-bodied with intense aromas of fresh, juicy, primary fruits with the other magic component for long-term cellaring, grippy, fine tannins. If you are looking to cellar or gift an iconic wine, Galatrona is a terrific option.
FRANCE Chateau Lafont Fourcat 2014 $20
A Bordeaux that is mostly Merlot but, in the interest of full disclosure, there is a splash of Malbec included. The wines from the Bordeaux are mostly all blends to hedge the climate and to maintain a consistent Chateau style. This wine has the bright acidity of a cooler vintage but the rich and juicy plum and blackberry with vanilla, smoke and floral notes that provide a perfect balance. Here is wine that offers great value and is getting the attention of critics. Beautiful wine that would pair with grilled chops and roast chicken dishes.
Petrus Pomerol Grand Vin 2014 $3,000
The grand-dame of Pomerol and one of the most sought after expensive and collectible wines. If price isn’t a consideration, this is one to get your hands on. An unusual expression from Bordeaux that is 100 per cent Merlot, that is so intensely fragrant, rich, lush and expressive that it requires at least 15 years to mature to fully appreciate the complexities, which explains why collectors will pay thousands of dollars for a single bottle. Recognized as a status wine and one of the most counterfeited wines in the world.
CANADA Baillie-Grohman Merlot 2014 $23
This winery came as quite a surprise when we stumbled upon it while visiting family in Creston, B.C. — tucked just outside this quiet town close to a magnificent gorge with the river at the bottom. If you are heading to the Okanagan, consider taking the long and winding scenic route that will take you to this quaint retirement town with a couple newer wineries to visit. The grapes for this wine are grown in the warmer Osoyoos area, so expect a full-bodied wine with ripe black fruits, rich, and spicy.
Checkmate End Game Merlot 2013 $85
This is one of four Merlots produced by the winemaker Phil Mcgahan. You will be amazed at the purity of the lush red fruits, plum, black cherry, floral, spice and everything nice. A beautiful wine with freshness and unexpected complexity. A vineyard blend of east-facing vineyards — Black Sage adds spice, and the grapes from Osoyoos region contribute fruit purity. Mcgahan says this wine, “tastes like sunshine.” We could all use a little of that! On the list at Rge Rd (an amazing farm-to-table restaurant) and in the Harvest Room at Fairmont Hotel Macdonald. Check out Mcgahan’s video at The Edmonton Journal online and on Checkmate’s website. Wine selections are available at select Alberta shops. Log onto liquorconnect.com to check availability and give them a call to verify.