DIVIDING PEONIES IS A SNAP
Q We divide our time between Jasper and our little brick house in Edmonton, which we have owned for 18 years. The most glorious group of peonies came with the house, and they are precious to me. However, a mason will be re-pointing the stone and mortar basement this spring, and the bricks around it as well. The mason completed the interior walls this winter, and as soon as the ground is thawed will be starting work outside, which involves digging down two or three feet around the perimeter of the house, so I must temporarily relocate my beloved peonies. I’m afraid they will never rebound, and since I don’t live here continuously what advice do you have for someone who might look after them in my absence?
A This is a very difficult question to answer without actually seeing the peonies. I am assuming that the peonies are at least 18 years old and have never been divided. This presents an entirely different scenario when compared to younger plants, or ones that have been divided fairly recently. My guess is that your peonies are in need of division, as most peonies are in 10- to 15-year intervals. You will need to dig around the root ball of the peonies, trying to keep as many of the roots as possible. Once this is done, dig out the root ball and place it on a tarp. Next, divide the root clump into sections. You can use a very sharp knife to do this. Make certain that you leave at least three ‘eyes’ on each root clump you cut. These eyes are the growing points for the future plant. Allow the root pieces to air dry. Dusting them with a fungicide is a good idea as well. When ready to transplant, prepare the planting hole by adding a good quantity of compost or well-rotted manure, and then mix it well with the soil. The planting site should have at least six to eight hours of direct sun per day. Plant the root clumps with the eyes five centimetres below the level of the ground. Don’t expect them to bloom during their first year, but I think you will be pleasantly surprised at how well the new divisions will do for you. The added benefit of division is that now you have even more of your favourite plants, and once they are planted you will only have to keep them watered. Don’t let them dry out completely, but don’t keep them wet either. Good luck.
Q Thanks so much for the information on pruning our sick birch trees last fall. We followed your instructions and so far, so good, but the plot thickens. Late last summer and into the fall I noticed globby, white, foamy, spit-looking things on some of the ‘good’ branches of the birch tree. I vaguely remember seeing these on the tree a few years ago but didn’t do anything about it. It didn’t appear to be harming the tree, and they went away and haven’t been back until now. What is it/ are they? Do I need to do anything about it/them?
A: Your description is excellent and perfectly describes the spittle bug. Birch is a favourite of these critters. The spittle you describe is this insect’s means of hiding from the sun and from other preying insects.
If you look under the spittle you will find the real culprit. Spittle bugs usually do not do much in the way of severe damage, and they are not responsible for your birch problems. You can control spittle bugs by blasting them off with a sharp stream of water. Chemical control is rarely, if ever, needed.
Q Every year my sugar snap peas fall over and I would rather not use garden netting, as the cleanup after the peas are done is a mess.
A I stopped using the netting a few years back.
All I do now is insert bamboo garden sticks in an ‘X’ pattern along the row. I use three-foot sticks, and find that the pea tendrils attach themselves nicely to the sticks and to each other, and it works just as well as the netting. Easy ‘peasy’ (sorry, couldn’t resist) cleanup.