FOOD

Author pushes the humble salad to its limits

For chef Ilene Rosen, exploring the boundaries of what constitutes a salad has been a career-long pursuit. “I’ve yet to find a limit,” she says. Compelled by the heaps of colourful produce available yearround at her local market, Rosen changed careers in her 30s, moving from interior design to the culinary arts. Nearly two decades later, unusual and enticing salads have become her calling card.

In her new cookbook, Saladish: A Crunchier, Grainier, Herbier, Heartier, Tastier Way with Vegetables, the Brooklyn, N.Y.-based co-owner of R&D Foods shares her creative approach with 100 recipes, organized seasonally.

Rosen’s “Saladish Manifesto” underscores the importance of starting with the best ingredients you can get your hands on, taking the time to adjust seasoning as you go along, and playing with contrast in both texture and flavour.

“That’s really where the interest slash deliciousness will lie,” Rosen says. “You want there to be contrast. You want everything to be in balance. You may want to feature one particular flavour over another, but having something that counters it is crucial.”

JOSEPH DE LEO/ARTISAN BOOKS Of her couscous and spring allium mix, chef Ilene Rosen says that her “favourite members of the onion family get together — all at their spring best.”