WINEMAKERS’ DAUGHTERS COME INTO THEIR OWN
Toast Mother’s Day with these wines from top cellars run by enterprising women
There are some dates never to be forgotten. Mother’s Day (for all mother figures, of course) is one of them. Why not celebrate with a beautiful bottle of wine that was made by women making their mark in the world of winemaking?
More daughters of winemakers than ever before are at the helm of top cellars, setting the stage for future generations. This shift from the traditional practise of passing the estate to the eldest male in the family is becoming a way of the past. More women are taking over key positions in the industry from the vineyards to the cellar.
Here are my recommendations for some stellar wine gifts from winemaking daughters to pay homage to those that have mothered. Happy Mother’s Day!
ENTRE VINYES FUNAMBUL BRUT NATURE $23
I found this wonderful certified organic Cava by-the-glass at Bar Clementine. It’s made in Penedes by Maria Barrena from vines that were planted by her family more than 50 years ago. She started in the vineyard with her father at the age of 12 and has become a leader in the world of “natural wine.” This wine is a blend of Xarello, Macabeo and Parellada that’s light, crisp and very dry — just perfect for an elegant pour of bubbles. Expect granny smith apples, white peach, ripe pear, bread dough, sea-salt and fennel.
We will be pouring this gem at Color de Vino along with many others at our spring open house on Saturday from 1 p.m. to 5 p.m.
MACULAN VESPAIOLO $25
It was a pleasure to meet Maria Vittoria Maculan while she was here in Edmonton. She is one of two daughters of Faustino Maculan who now manage the estate. She followed in her father’s footsteps starting with picking grapes for “pocket change” as a child. Now Maria Vittoria Maculan is a sommelier and the global ambassador for Maculan, where her knowledge, passion, charm and wit make her the ideal representative.
This is one of the most highly rated wines from the region, made from 100 per cent Vespaiolo in Breganze DOC in Veneto, Italy. Maculan says the name of the grape comes from the word “Vespa” which translates to wasp — because the grape’s skin is so thin it will weep juice that attracts the wasp. A wonderfully aromatic wine with ripe peaches, honey and orange blossoms on a dry, crisp and round palate. It cries for another sip. Traditionally paired with bacala (salt cod).
Check out Maculan’s video online at edmontonjournal.com.
TIBERIO CERASUOLO D’ABRUZZO $27
Riccardo Tiberio handed the reins of this estate to his daughter, Cristiana Tiberio, in 2008 and her winemaking prowess is getting international attention. Her husband looks after the vineyard where they uprooted the international varieties, replacing them with native grape varieties.
This rose is composed of 100 per cent Montepulciano from Cerasuolo D’Abruzzo (pronounced chair-ah- SWOH-lo dah-BROOT-zo) which sounds great and tastes even better. Concentrated aromas and flavours of tart cherry, cranberry and ripe strawberry followed by a beautiful crisp, dry palate with fresh raspberry, “crunchy red fruits” with notes of orange peel and flowers. Pair with pizza, cheese, fish, meat — terrific food pairing wine. Highly recommended!
VINA ELENA, FAMILIA PACHECO ROBLE $18
Elena Pacheco is the head of this family-run winery in Jumilla, Spain, along with her mother, sisters and children working with her to help manage the bodegas that dates to 1948 when Francisco Pacheco Perez, their great-grandfather, started the winery. This is a youthful wine made from Monastrell, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah grapes that’s a full-bodied, easydrinking, fruity, crowd pleaser that will stand up to charcoalgrilled meats, stews, cheese — or on its own. The word ‘roble’ (pronounced roh-bley) is Spanish for oak. This wine was aged for three months in oak, creating a soft wine with a surprising balance of acidity and freshness from this grape and the semi-arid desert where it’s grown.
Loads of ripe red berries, fresh cherries, plum and spice on a rich, round palate with notes of smoke, caramel and spice mingled in.
LA STOPPA — AGENO $43
Elena Pantaleoni now runs the ancient estate of La Stoppa that her father, a printer, acquired in 1973, in Emilia Romagna, Italy. A soft-spoken woman who is a key figure in leading the “artisanal” wine movement sweeping the wine world, planting only Indigenous varietals and using organic farming and winemaking techniques.
This is an ‘orange wine’ — a white wine made like a red wine. Consider that the juice from a red grape is clear and a red wine’s colour is derived from contact with the skins. Therefore, this wine made with white grapes, Malvasia and Trebbiano Ortrugo has the structure and complexity from 30 days of skin contact and then aging in used, French oak.
My husband and I just love this wine! A complex wine that’s deep amber in colour and intensely aromatic with flowers, candied lemon rind, ripe peach, roasted nuts, baked apples, yeast and spice — along with balanced freshness and soft dry tannins. Perfect for pairing a range of dishes from savoury to spicy. But we enjoy it on its own as well.
Wine selections are available at select Alberta shops. Log onto liquorconnect.com to check availability and call to verify. Juanita Roos opened Color de Vino, a fine wine and spirits store, with her family in 2014. She has travelled to wine regions around the world and completed the prestigious WSET Diploma from London, England, the prerequisite for the Master of Wine program. Send your questions about wine to info@colordevino.ca.