What the Truck?!? returns
What’s a doughnut without a hole? It’s a malasada, obviously, a Hawaii-inspired confection that puts whipped cream or custard where the hole would be, turning the Canadian standard into a sweet, new option for Edmontonians.
The doughnut-without-a-hole is the specialty at Ohana Donuterie, a food truck that makes its debut at What The Truck?! on Saturday at the festival’s official kickoff for the 2018 food truck season.
The event, a highlight of the Edmonton summer since 2011, will be held at Capital Boulevard on 108th Street at the legislature grounds between 3 p.m. and 8 p.m. More than a dozen trucks are on-site, including Ohana, but also three other newcomers — Burrazo, The Hat on Wheels and Pizza Noli.
The trucks have been handpicked by volunteers from What The Truck?! to reflect original concepts and expert execution. Saturday’s launch is one of three What The Truck?! events in 2018. The second is Friday, July 6 at the Valley Zoo and the final extravaganza is Sunday, Aug. 26 at ReMax Field (Edmonton’s ballpark).
Ohana co-owners Adam Biel and Brendan Hance are thrilled to be part of the season opener. Although their truck was on the street last summer, this is the first year that the truck is linked to a brick-and-mortar space in Old Strathcona (10347-80 Ave.) that opened a few months back. So there’s a lot to promote.
“We’re selling something that people really seem to like, so that helps a lot,” said Hance.
After sampling the doughnut, it’s easy to understand the attraction. Even on the truck, Ohana (which means family in Hawaiian) makes its doughnuts fresh about every 15 minutes, and there are no preservatives in the mix. Many quirky and delicious flavours are in the store, including Orange Creamsicle (the special for May). For the What The Truck?! event, the menu has been pared back to keep lineups short. Watch for Ohana’s classic cinnamon-sugar dusted doughnut stuffed with fillings such as coconut cream or vanilla whipped cream.
If savoury is more your style, Pizza Noli has a snack for you. Gent Sinovarfi has spent upwards of $200,000 on his truck, which comes with a $40,000 pizza oven Sinovarfi describes as “the Ferrari of pizza ovens.” The former Canmore restaurateur has created a line of Neapolitan pizzas, including the classic Margherita, for food-truck fans.
“I wanted to create something I can be proud of,” said Sinovarfi, who is from Albania but has worked in pizzerias all over Italy.
Neapolitan pizzas originate from the Naples area of Campania, and Sinovarfi is staying as close to possible to the pizza’s roots, using a Calgary-made fior di latte (a kind of mozzarella from cow ’s milk) and 00 flour imported from Italy.
His truck has a big glass window so customers can watch every step of the pizza process, from the stretching of the dough to the firing of the pies.
When he’s not at What the Truck?! Sinovarfi sets up his truck in a field at the southwest corner of 159 Street and 87 Avenue during the day, and along Whyte Avenue late at night. He’s also looking for a downtown curbside to park Pizza Noli. While some food truck operators start on the street and move inside once established, one local truck has gone the opposite way. The Hat on Wheels, offspring of downtown’s 107-year-old The Hat, will be on Capital Boulevard Saturday with a range of popular items from its brick-and-mortar location at 10251 Jasper Ave.
Owner Mike Bhatnagar says he’ll make his famous baby back ribs fresh from within the truck, plus green onion cakes and butter chicken.
“I don’t have a patio (on Jasper Avenue), so it’s truly an extension of the business,” said Bhatnagar. “My goal is to take my restaurant to the masses. The food is top notch, same as my restaurant.”
Another innovator hitting the street Saturday is Francisco Salazar of Burrazo. He notes that most Mexican outlets in Edmonton serve Tex-Mex style burritos, but insists his are authentic Mexican style (hint: they include refried beans). Watch also for his crazy fusion dish, Dorilocos, a serving of Doritos topped with pico de gayo, sour cream, hot Mexican sauce and cucumbers.
There are a couple of new features at What the Truck?! this time around, including a live band, Tsunami Brothers, who play a set at 5 p.m. and again at 6:15 p.m. A new cutlery program hopes to cut down on waste. Diners can rent knives and forks for a $2 deposit.
Organizer Melina Kawecki asks attendees to remember a donation for the Edmonton Food Bank, noting there will be a draw to win a Golden Ticket. This gives a lucky Food Bank donor VIP privileges, including a personal escort to the front of the line for a future What The Truck?! event.