Edmonton Journal

ENJOY A MEDITERRAN­EAN VIBE WITH ALTERNATIV­ES TO CLASSIC WHITES

- JUANITA ROOS Wine

We all need a great summer white wine.

If you’re looking for an alternativ­e to Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Grigio, let me introduce you to Vermentino (pronounced ver-men-TEE-no), an overlooked varietal that’s worth seeking out. The wines are vibrant and refreshing and will take you away with thoughts of Mediterran­ean vacations and cool breezes.

The wines are typically aromatic, straw-yellow in colour, fresh, crisp alongside concentrat­ed flavours of citrus, florals, stone-fruits, fresh-cut garden herbs and a flinty minerality (wet stones) finishing slightly bitter (citrus rind) or nutty (crushed blanched almonds).

A light-skinned wine grape variety, Vermentino is best known as an Italian varietal and the signature grape of Sardinia.

It is also grown in northern Italy, particular­ly in Liguria (think Cinque Terre), Bolgheri in Tuscany (central Italy) and Piedmont (northwest Italy).

There are notable plantings in France as well, especially in Corsica (which makes sense because it was part of Italy at one time), Provence and LanguedocR­oussillon.

You will also find smattering­s of vines planted internatio­nally including the United States. Vermentino has many other European names such as Favorita (Piedmont), Pigato (Liguria) and Rolle or Garbesso (LanguedocR­oussillon).

It comes as no surprise that this wine is not only brilliant as a refreshing and interestin­g aperitif or patio sipper, but it’s also a versatile pairing wine for Mediterran­ean-inspired recipes such as oysters with Provence herbed butter, grilled fish or shellfish, spaghetti alle vongole, cioppino, pesto dishes, fava beans, peas and fennel.

If you can find (or cellar) an older vintage of Vermentino, pair with richer dishes such as Ligurian-style stuffed pasta or lobster rice, fish and chips and roasted white meats. Are you hungry yet?

If you haven’t tried Vermentino before, you’re in for a treat. Here are some great recommenda­tions.

COSTAMOLIN­O VERMENTINO DI SARDEGNA ARGIOLAS DOC $26

A wonderful example of the island’s native grape, made from 100 per cent Vermentino. An aromatic and flavourful wine with notes of the local vegetation and pine, as well as ripe peaches mingled with fresh garden mint and lemon rind. A vibrant and refreshing entry-level wine from Argiolas, a larger producer, which results in it’s wider availabili­ty.

POGGIO MORINO VERMENTINO IGT $20

A second Tuscan Vermentino from Morellino di Scansano with tropical fruits and freshsquee­zed Meyer lemons, sprinkled with spring flowers, herbaceous, yeasty and salty notes on a slightly textured and bitter finish (citrus rind).

VERMENTINO DELLA MAREMMA TOSCANA “PAGLIATURA” IGT $32

Last week, a customer wanted to pick up the bottle, “with trees all around the label” and I couldn’t place it until now. Fattoria di Magliano produces this organicall­y farmed Tuscan Vermentino in Maremma; fresh,

straw-coloured wine layered with herbaceous and crisp citrus aromas wrapped in ripe, juicy pear and nectarine with a medium-bodied palate that lingers. Bad news: it’s currently out of stock in Alberta but you might find some on shelves. Good news: it’s on the way here from Italy and Corso 32, Uccellino and Bar Bricco have it on their lists.

LVNAE ETICHETTA GRIGIA COLLI DI LUNI DOC $24

Straw-yellow in the glass with concentrat­ed aromas of grapefruit, tropical fruits and notes of honey on a crisp mineral palate that’s fresh and fruity with white peaches and citrusy notes on the finish. Lvnae is the name of the area close to Cinque Terre where this light-bodied, refreshing wine is grown on extremely steep slopes. Bill Medak summed it up with, “It tastes great!” Order a bottle at three of Edmonton’s top restaurant­s: Red Ox Inn, Corso 32 and Uccellino.

LE GRAND CROS L’ESPRIT DE PROVENCE BLANC $23

When we think of Provence in southern France, rose wines come first to mind, but here is a white that you won’t soon forget. A blend of Rolle (also known as Vermentino) and Semillon. Aromas of thyme, white pears, peaches and fresh-squeezed grapefruit, followed with a dry palate with a little weight to it and loads of juicy stone fruit, savoury, nutty and mineral notes on a beautiful, fresh finish. I paired grilled pineapple with this

and it was a life-changer. Incredible value for such an elegant and vibrant white wine that you can drink now or hold for another five years.

The current vintage is 2017, which was a challengin­g harvest with early frost resulting in a small, but high-quality crop.

DOMAINE COMTE ABBATUCCI CUVEE FAUSTINE BLANC $42

What can I say other than I love this producer from the Island of Corsica. Not only is there a remarkable story behind this wine dating back to the French Revolution, involving General Abbatucci (the domaine is run by Jean-Charles Abbatucci) and Napoleon Bonaparte, the wines are absolutely amazing. This wine is composed of 100 per cent Vermentino that is indigenous to Corsica. Loads of white flowers folded over ripe pineapple and grapefruit rinds with layers of fresh herb and anise, and a splash of sea salt. Perhaps it’s the music that Jean-Charles plays in the vineyards as well as in the cellar.

Wine selections are available at select Alberta shops. Log onto liquorconn­ect.com to check availabili­ty and give them a call to verify.

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